Past Newsletters

August 2008

That's Amore—Italian Cheeses to Love!

In Italy good times and good food are synonymous, and Italians especially love their cheeses! So what better way to celebrate summer than by feasting on three exotic cheeses from Italy? You can be sure the Italians are spending a good deal of their typical vacation month sampling the excellent local vino and pairing it with wonderful, flavorful cheeses. So Monthly Clubs decided to help you join in the summer celebration by offering a selection of excellent, tasty, tangy Italian cheeses. This month, there are three outstanding ones on our menu: Parmigiano Reggiano, Montasio, and Pecorino Toscano.

Parmigiano Reggiano

Our friends at Zingerman's, one of the world's great delis, swear they discovered this superb Parmigiano Reggiano cheese at a secret dairy on the top of a hill outside of Modena during a food tour. They first sampled wedges of it during a meal in Modena and were highly motivated to discover who manufactured it and, more importantly, how to import it to the U.S. We're happy they did, because this parmesan is quite a find. Thanks to Zingerman's, we're able to make it available to our cheese-loving customers.

A lot of folks figure Parmigiano Reggiano is meant to be simply grated into soup, sprinkled onto pasta or polenta, or topped onto tender veal or chicken. These are all certainly acceptable options, and the cheese will also help heighten the flavors of minestrone or onion soup. However, this aromatic, delectable cheese can easily stand by itself and be consumed solo. This cheese is as versatile as it is tasty. Have it for a snack during the day with some fresh Italian bread. Enjoy it with a bit of fruit in place of a rich dessert to finish off a fine meal. Or drizzle it with honey for another after-dinner alternative. Parmigiano Reggiano is a cheese that is meant to be eaten and savored, not merely ground up and grated.

Our colleagues at Zingerman's tell us that not all the wheels that boast the world-famous Parmigiano Reggiano name are created equal. In fact, there are enormous differences from one Parmigiano Reggiano to the next. This special rendition that you have received this month is made by a dairy situated at an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet in the hills above Modena. The high altitude provides the right conditions for plenty of diversity in the grasses, herbs and flowers—a first-class banquet for this dairy's herd of cows. As a result, their milk is full of complex and unique flavors.

Another discriminating difference is that our selection is aged for a minimum of two years, which is 33 percent longer than the Consorzio minimum! The Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano is an association of 482 cheese producers. The Consorzio was founded in 1934 and became a force in Italian cheesemaking after the agricultural reform of 1954. Each cheesemaker is a member of the Consorzio. It's the Consorzio that establishes the high standards of operation, and it runs ongoing tests to make sure those standards are being met. You can see the Consorzio's seal of approval on every wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. Any wheel that bears the seal has earned it. Most importantly, the finished cheese has a really rich, wonderfully complex flavor, with a lovely, long finish. It has none of that bitterness or mouth burn that often marks the final flavor of others. This is the best Parmigiano Reggiano you are ever going to taste!

Montasio

Montasio cheese derives its name from the Montasio mountain range in the Friuli region north of Venice in Italy. It was first made during the 13th century at a monastery in the Giulia Alps. Today, Montasio is widely produced throughout the Friuli region, and it is made in compliance with precise requirements. The production area is limited to Friuli and East Veneto in the provinces of Belluno and Treviso, and to some areas of Padua and the Venetian provinces. But the wonderful characteristics of this product that date back to those industrious monks have been preserved for all to enjoy.

The branding of the cheese with the trademark of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Montasio (Consortium for the Protection of Montasio Cheese) guarantees its origin, as well as compliance with all the characteristics stipulated in the production regulations. Only fresh cow's milk is used, and the progressive transformation process is closely monitored.

Montasio is enjoyed by all ages because it is so easy to digest and, therefore, is especially suitable for children and elderly people. It's always delicious whatever its age. Montasio is great when it's still fresh, as well as after maturing for only two months. It's scrumptious when it has matured from five to ten months, and it's everyone's favorite when it has achieved full maturity after ten or more months.

When the cheese is fresh, the taste is mild and delicate, and the color is white. The texture is compact with an even oscillation, and the rind is smooth and flexible. As the cheese matures, it becomes grainy and crumbly, and the rind dries and darkens. Its flavor becomes mellow and fruity with a full-flavored finish, and its color slowly turns to a pale, straw-yellow. Typically, you will find this cheese served as an eating cheese with crusty bread. You can also shred it on pasta dishes, serve it in omelets, or use it to make sauces and fondue.

Pecorino Toscano

Until recently the name Pecorino Toscano was given to any cheese made in Tuscany from ewe's milk (pecorino is the Italian word for sheep), although sometimes it was mixed with cow's or goat's milk. The name is now reserved for pure ewe's milk cheeses made between September and June. Pecorino Toscano cheeses are smaller and milder than the other Pecorinos (Romano and Sardo), and may be sold soft and fresh (with a yellow rind) or firm and ripened for a few months (with brown-red rind).

This is no ordinary cheese. Pecorino of Tuscany is famous in the cheese world, since just about every village in Tuscany makes its own unique rendition—all based on the same recipe! You might think some would be better than others, but the Tuscans love their Pecorino and they claim that each one is equally delicious… just a little different.

Savory and fragrant grasses which vary from farm to farm contribute to each version's unique taste. So does each farmer's interpretation of the basic recipe. Milking takes place once a day, and the cheeses are made using unpasteurized milk. The cheeses are then ripened in a damp environment of about 10°C from forty days to more than six months

Most Pecorinos are oily cheeses (about 45% fat) because ewe's milk contains very high amounts of butterfat, which is one of the reasons this cheese is so scrumptious. When your Pecorino comes to room temperature, don't be surprised if you see beads of oil on the cheese. They're "butterfat tears," and they weep naturally from this cheese, indicating it's the perfect temperature for eating.

Toscano can, of course, be used as an ingredient in cooking. It's also an excellent addition to any cheese board. Although it's usually eaten as a table cheese, try it shaved on top of fresh beans, summer salads, or lightly sautéed greens. Use it instead of Parmigiano on your next bowl of pasta. Its flavor is dense and nutty with a wonderful rustic finish.

Pecorino Toscano was granted its DOC protection on May 17, 1986. It can be made in Tuscany and the neighboring communities of Umbria and Latium. In Tuscany, Pecorino is never referred to as formaggio, but rather as cacio, which was adapted from the Latin word caseus. The German word kase and the English word cheese were also derived from this ancient Latin word.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Parmigiano Reggiano	Par-mee-JAH-noh reh-JAH-noh	Serve it with Italian red wines like Spanna, Barolo, or Gattinara.
Montasio	mohn-TAH-zee-yoh	Try it with Pinot Grigio.
Pecorino Toscano	peh-koh-REE-noh toh-SKAH-noh	A light red wine, such as a Gamay, would be an ideal accompaniment.