Past Newsletters

July 2007

World Famous Cheeses - Oh, the Anticipation!

Wow—once again we've managed to nab three world class cheeses from three different countries. Italian cheeses have some of the best reputations in the world, shadowed perhaps, only by those made in France. Then again, authentic Swiss cheeses are exceptionally well known and particularly well-loved throughout the world. And then there are the lesser known but equally as delicious cheeses of Holland. This unique ensemble of flavorful and hard to find cheeses is one we're particularly proud of—and we hope you'll agree that as a group, they constitute a truly unique combination of world-class gourmet cheeses! Enjoy!!

Provolone
Aged Over One Year!

Like Mozzarella, Provolone is pasta filata (pulled or stretched curd cheese), but unlike Mozzarella there are two kinds of Provolone. Dolce Provolone is a young, semisoft and smooth table cheese that has typically been aged for two to three months. It's mild in flavor and smoothly velvety on the tongue. Then there is what you are about to taste—a Piccante (piquant) Provolone which can be curdled using the rennet from a goat, lamb or calf—or a combination. These rennets, as well as the aging process, give it a stronger flavor. Usually Piccante is aged for six to twelve months, though we've known a few Italian Provolones that have been aged as long as two years!

Italian-style Provolone can be made with buffalo or cows' milk, or a mixture of the two—either of which may or may not be pasteurized. Sometimes it's lightly smoked using the branches of applewood. Clearly, there's plenty of room for variation in the ingredients and the process of making this cheese, which is why this is one that definitely bears the mark of each individual artisan. Basically, if you take Mozzarella, hand-rub the surface with brine, bind it with rope and hang it up in a room with the proper temperature and humidity, in time it will turn into an entirely different cheese—something very close to Provolone.

But here's how they do it in Italy. After using his unique combination of rennets to coagulate the milk, the cheesemaker cuts the newly formed curd into leaf-like slices, which are first scaled and then kneaded like dough. He works the dough until it spins and becomes elastic, and then it is pressed and molded to prepare it for aging. Each one of these fine Italian cheeses is individually hand shaped by an artisan cheesemaker. He has the delicate task of molding the cheese in such a way as to avoid formation of air bubbles or liquid in the paste, thereby achieving a smooth and uniform surface. Next the cheeses are immersed in a salt bath, and the length of time may vary. When they are removed from the brine they are washed with cold water, wrapped and secured in rope. Only then are they ready to be aged, or smoked and then aged. As they are suspended from the rope and slowly cured in the aging chamber, they become clearly recognized as Provolone.
Auricchio Provolone

In 1877 in San Giuseppe Vesuviano near Naples, a company named "Auricchio" was founded by Gennaro Auricchio, the inventor of a special rennet, or as people said, the "secret of don Gennaro," which gives Auricchio Provolone its unique taste. Auricchio Provolone gained fame quickly and by the end of the 19th century, the surname of its producer had become a byword for the cheese itself.
Provolone was originally the traditional cheese of Southern Italy. By the end of the nineteenth century, production had already spread to the Po Valley and the area between Brescia and Cremona in particular. Its name derives from the Neapolitan words "prova" or "provola," which mean globe shaped. Provolones are created in a variety of globe-like shapes, in a range of sizes from half pound melons to 200 pound torpedo shapes.
Your authentic Italian-style Provolone is a grating cheese, full-bodied and buttery with a slight snap. Aged Italian Provolones are just so much more flavorful than standard issue sandwich provolone. Made into huge "salamis" and then aged for over a year, this succulent, sharp, buttery flavor will be the star of your antipasto plates. If you've only tried the soft, supermarket "deli" version of Provolone, this cheese will be a revelation. Serve it with Italian olives and thin slices of Prosciutto di Parma, and your friends will feel like they've discovered a whole new Provolone persona—Provolone as they eat it in Italy!

Tasting Notes

What you are tasting today is a harder cheese that is easy to grate over pizzas and pastas—or anything that calls for a topping of cheese (which is just about everything if you ask us!) It melts best when shredded first. For a succulent treat that you might not immediately think of yourself—we suggest you try it with some red grapes, pears, figs, tomatoes, roasted red peppers, olives or hearty breads drizzled with olive oil. A favorite of ours is provolone melted over fresh bruschetta. Delicious!

Leyden
Rich in Heritage—Short on History

Leyden cheese, like Edam, originates from the Dutch homeland in the area around the city of Leiden (in Holland it is spelled Leiden, but everywhere else you'll find it carrying the name Leyden). This cheese, like its cousin Edam, has a rich heritage. Eextraordinary quality goes into each step of Leyden cheesemaking.

Just like Edam, it is made from rich, skimmed milk, but this is where the similarities end. Leyden cheese has the additional ingredient of creamy buttermilk and is a deliciously firm, subtly spicy tasting dairy treat. This cheese is truly unique in flavor because of the cumin and caraway seeds used to season it. As Leyden cheese ages, the cumin seeds draw out whey from the curds, giving it a drier, firmer texture than Edam. In Holland it is known as Cumin Cheese, but because of its popularity around the city of Leiden it is exported under the name of Leyden.

Its history is rather mysterious; no one seems to know how this cheese first came about. One popular theory is that an apprentice cheesemaker was munching on some cumin seeds —a very popular spice in Holland—and accidentally dropped a handful into the cheese vat. In fear of being fired, he didn't tell the cheesemaker and when the cheese was tasted, they all loved it! It's probably not how it happened, but it seems the world will never know.

Tasting Notes

Flavored with caraway and cumin seeds, this unique cheese has an aromatic flavor that contrasts well with its creamy, nutty character. Its spicy tang makes it a delicious snack, especially when served with a dark bread and beer! Go to beermonthclub.com and check out all of marvelous microbrews that you could enjoy with your Leyden cheese!

Sapsago
Monks Inspired by the Moon

For over 2,000 years, since the Romans ate caseus Helveticus (Helvetian cheese), cheesemaking has been inherent in the lifestyle of those who have inhabited the region we now call Switzerland. The rich and lush pastures in the Alpine areas have long been associated with dairy farming. More than 100 different varieties of cheese are produced in Switzerland—and not mass produced either. Cheeses like Sapsago are made in small, strictly controlled dairies, each under the direction of a master cheesemaker with a federal degree. It's no wonder that rustic, full-flavored Swiss cheeses are considered to be some of the best in the world!

And it's no wonder that the Swiss have turned out yet another exceptional cheese! In the USA, we call this cheese Sapsago. It's also known as Grüner Käse (green cheese), Glarnerkäser, Krauterkäse and Schbzieger in other countries.
Sapsago, unique to the Swiss, is always shaped in a small cone, green-grey in color, rock hard—and hard to find. Its color and its pungent spicy flavor can be primarily attributed to the addition of herbs—either clover-blue melitot (melilotis coerulea) or fenugreek. According to holisticonline.com, fenugreek, which you can buy as a powder for seasoning other foods, is credited with many curative powers, including the inhibition of cholesterol absorption and synthesis. The seeds, rich in dietary fiber, can also lower blood sugar levels. And if that isn't enough good news, you can revel in the fact that compared to most cheeses, Sapsago is virtually fat free!

Sapsago is made from an aged type of young cows' milk cheese called Zieger, which is skimmed milk, or whey, or a combination, and therefore is very low in fat (about 3%). This cheese is produced in the mountains of the canton of Glarus, Switzerland where it was first created by Monks during the 16th century. To make it, the curd is pressed, completely dried, ground into a powder, and then mixed with either fenugreek or the alpine clover, which has a taste similar to sage. The mixture is pressed into molds to become hard little 3-ounce cones, which are wrapped in silver foil.

Tasting Notes

Valued as a low-fat complement to pasta and baked dishes, and for grating to add flavor to salads, vegetables, noodle dishes, and soups, Sapsago is a truly versatile cheese. It is used to flavor spreads and dips for crackers, and can be mixed with other cheeses such as Quark or Ricotta to create a creamy spread. Try it with Mascarpone for salad dressing. It can also be blended into butter, yogurt, or cream cheese. The Swiss eat this distinctive cheese on fresh buttered bread. Sapsago can be refrigerated for several months, and we are told that it keeps almost indefinitely at room temperature, that is, if no one is hungry.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Provolone	PROH-vuh-LOH-nuh OR PROH-vuh-LONE	Merlot, Chianti, light-bodied Pinot Noir, Chardonnay or Syrah
Sapsago	Sop-SAH-goh	Fino Sherry, Syrah, Zinfandel
Leyden	LIE-dehn	German Schwarzbier, Pacific Northwestern India Pale Ale