Past Newsletters

August 2006

Tasty, Tangy Italian Cheeses

What better way to celebrate summer than by feasting on exotic cheeses from fabulous Italy? In Italy good times and good food are certainly synonymous! You can be sure the Italians are going to spend a good deal of their free time sampling the excellent local vino and matching up delectable, flavorful cheeses to go with the wine! So Monthly Clubs decided to help you join in the summer celebration by offering a selection of excellent, tasty, tangy Italian cheeses. This month, there are three great cheeses on our menu: Parmigiano Reggiano, Montasio, and Pecorino Toscano.

Our friends at Zingerman's, one of the world's greatest delis, swear they discovered this superb Parmigiano Reggiano cheese at a secret dairy on the top of a hill outside of Modena during a food tour. They first sampled wedges of this fine cheese during a meal in Modena, and then went on to discover who manufactured it and how to import it. We're happy they did, because this cheese is quite a find. Thanks to Zingerman's, we're able to make it available to our own customers.

Parmigiano Reggiano

This cheese is truly astounding, tasty and versatile. A lot of folks figure Parmigiano Reggiano is meant to be simply grated into soup, sprinkled onto paste or polenta, or topped onto tender veal or chicken. These are all certainly acceptable options, and the cheese will help heighten the flavors of minestrone or onion soup. However, this aromatic, delectable cheese can easily stand by itself and be consumed solo. Have it for a snack during the day with some fresh Italian bread. Have it with a bit of fruit to finish off a fine meal in place of a rich dessert. This is a cheese that is meant to be eaten and savored, not merely ground up and grated.

Our colleagues at Zingerman's tell us that not all the wheels that boast the world-famous Parmigiano Reggiano name are created equal. In fact, there are enormous differences from one Parmigiano Reggiano to the next. This special rendition that you will be, or are already, tasting is made by a dairy nearly 2,000 feet up in the hills outside of Modena. The high altitude provides the right conditions for plenty of diversity in the grasses, herbs and flowers… a first class banquet for this diary's herd of cows. And that means their milk is full of complex and unique flavors.

Another discriminating difference, our selection is aged for a minimum of two years, which is 33 percent longer than the Consorzio minimum! The Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano is an association of 482 cheese producers. The Consorzio was founded in 1934, and became a force in Italian cheesemaking after the agricultural reform of 1954. Each cheese maker is a member of the Consorzio. It's the Consorzio that establishes the high standards of operation, and runs ongoing tests to make sure those standards are being met. You can see the Consorzio's seal of approval on every wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. Any wheel that wears the seal has earned it. Most importantly, the finished cheese has a really rich, wonderfully complex flavor, with a lovely, long finish. It has none of that bitterness or mouth burn that often marks the final flavor of others. This is the best Parmigiano Reggiano you are ever going to taste!

Montasio

Montasio cheese derives its name from the Montasio mountain range in the Friuli region of Italy. It was first made during the 13th century at a monastery in the Giulia Alps. Today, Montasio is widely produced throughout the Friuli region, and it is made in compliance with precise requirements. The production area is limited to Friuli (which is north of Venice); East Veneto in the provinces of Belluno and Treviso; and to some areas of Padua and Venice provinces. But the original characteristics of this fine product have been preserved for all to enjoy.

The branding of the cheese with the trademark of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Montasio (Consortium for the Protection of Montasio Cheese) guarantees its origin, as well as compliance with all the characteristics stipulated in the production regulations. Only fresh cow's milk is used, and the progressive transformation process is closely monitored.

Montasio is enjoyed by all ages because it is so easy to digest, and therefore, is especially suitable for children and elderly people. It's always delicious whatever its age. Montasio is great when it's still fresh as well as after maturing for only two months. It's scrumptious when it has matured from five to ten months, and it's everyone's favorite in its full maturity of ten or more months.

When the cheese is fresh, the taste is mild and delicate, and the color is white. The texture is compact with an even oscillation, and the rind is smooth and flexible. As the cheese matures, it becomes grainy and crumbly and the rind dries and darkens. Its flavor becomes mellow and fruity with and full flavored finish, and its color slowly turns to a pale, straw-yellow. Typically, you will find this cheese served as an eating cheese with crusty bread. You can also shred it on pasta dishes, and serve it in omelets, sauces, and fondue.

Pecorino Toscano

Until recently the name Pecorino Toscano was given to any cheese made in Tuscany from ewes' milk (pecorino is the Italian word for sheep), although sometimes it was mixed with cows' or goats' milk. The name is now reserved for pure ewes' milk cheeses made between September and June. Pecorino Toscano cheeses are smaller and milder than the other Pecorinos (Romano and Sardo), and may be sold soft and fresh (yellow rind) or firm and ripened for a few months (brown-red rind).

This is no ordinary cheese. Pecorino of Tuscany is quite famous around the cheese world since just about every village in Tuscany makes their own unique rendition, but they are all based on the same recipe! You may think that some would be better than others, but the Tuscans love their Pecorino, and they claim that each one is equally delicious… just a little different.

Savory and fragrant grasses which vary from farm to farm help to give each version its unique taste as does each farmers interpretation of the basic recipe. Milking always takes place once a day and the cheeses are made using unpasteurized milk. They are ripened from forty days to more than six months in a damp environment of about 10ºC.

Most Pecorinos are oily cheeses (about 45% fat) because ewes' milk contains very high amounts of butterfat… one of the reasons this cheese is so scrumptious. So when your Pecorino comes to room temperature, don't be surprised if you see beads of oil on the cheese. "Butterfat Tears" weep naturally from this cheese, indicating that it's the perfect temperature for eating.

Toscano can be used as an ingredient in cooking, and is also an excellent addition to any cheese board. Although it's usually eaten as a table cheese, try it shaved on top of fresh beans, summer salads, or lightly sautéed greens. Use it instead of Parmigiano on your next bowl of pasta. Its flavor is dense and nutty with a wonderful rustic finish.

Pecorino Toscano was granted its DOC protection on May 17th, 1986. It can be made in Tuscany and the neighboring communes of Umbria and Latium. In Tuscany, Pecorino is never referred to as formaggio, but rather, cacio, which was adapted from the Latin word caseus. The German kase and the English cheese were also derived from this ancient word.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Parmigiano Reggiano	Par-mee-JAH-noh reh-JAH-noh	Serve it with Italian red wines like Spanna, Barolo, or Gattinara.
Montasio	mohn-TAH-zee-yoh	Try it with Pinot Grigio.
Pecorino Toscano	peh-koh-REE-noh toh-SKAH-noh	A light red wine, such as a Gamay, would be an ideal accompaniment.