Past Newsletters

June 2006

Cheeses Extraordinaire: Appenzeller, Danish Tilsit and Tomme de Savoie

Extra Aged Appenzeller

Appenzeller cheese comes to us from the mountain canton of Appenzell between Lake Constance and Liechtenstein. Historically, each valley of the Alps produced its own specialty cheese that was used to fulfill tax obligations. As you might well have guessed, Appenzeller was documented by tax records that go back over 700 years! It took many years to earn, but the Appenzeller identity was given the AOC designation in 1981, and is protected by a special authority located in St. Gallen, Switzerland. It is indeed a high quality cheese that is favored the world over.

This relatively rare treat is a full-fat, semi-hard cow's milk cheese, selected and matured to the highest of standards. Only supplied to consumers at the height of its maturity, Extra Aged Appenzeller is a superior natural product, over whose quality no compromise is made. After exacting analysis, cheese-making experts carefully select the choice picks of the Appenzeller cheeses. Only select cheeses that fulfill a rigid set of standards are considered suitable to be matured for long periods and have the opportunity to become Appenzeller Extras. The same experts that select which products will be aged to full maturity also oversee the aging process over a 6-month period in climate-controlled cheese cellars maintained to exactly 15 degrees Celsius.

Naturally, Appenzeller Extra is treated with a mixture of wine, spices and herbal brine, the recipe for which remains a well-kept secret, known only to a few. The unique milk from the rich valued pastures, the two-stage maturation process, and the secret recipes for the curing baths give this cheese a delicate and most full flavor. Secrets aside, what is known is that Common Appenzeller is made with scalded skim milk and brine-cured for 12 full months, while another variety, Festive Appenzeller, uses scalded whole milk, and is cured with brine, pepper, twenty or more plants and spices, and the sediment created in the process of making white wine. And similar to the fact that not all wine vintages are suitable for extended aging, not every Appenzeller cheese can be matured long enough to mature into an Extra Appenzeller. We are delighted to be able to bring you this rare delicacy, sought out by cheese connoisseurs around the globe for its unique, full-impact taste.

Tasting Notes: Aged for 6 months, you'll find this cheese on the slightly spicy side. It's a pressed, cooked-curd cheese with occasional pea-size holes. We found it to have a pleasing, smooth texture. Its real charm though, is its fruity tanginess, imparted by the wine or cider wash it receives during curing, making it a perfect complement to delicious summer fruits or to be served as a dessert cheese. Milder varieties on the other hand are excellent for snacks, sandwiches, grilling, or as a melting cheese. Of course, the use of wine in the curing process also makes this cheese particularly well-suited to wine pairing.

Danish Tilsit

In the mid-19th Century, Dutch settlers came to East Prussia (now part of Russia and Poland) near the town of Tilsit. Away from their familiar homeland and with inadequate supply lines to deliver their native cheeses, these settlers grew to crave the Gouda they had come to love. Through their determination and their passion for fine cheese, these settlers resolved to attempt a recreation of their beloved Gouda.

Unfortunately for them, but luckily for us, one cannot make Danish Gouda in a damp, moldy Prussian cellar. During their efforts to recreate their own beloved Gouda, the cheese became infected with molds, yeasts, and bacteria while being aged in a damp cellar. Thus Tilsit, also known as Tilsit Havarti, was born. Although similar, this Danish cheese has a fuller and more intense flavor than the regular Havarti. Having a brownish-orange washed rind and made of partially skimmed milk, this exquisite cheese has a rich yellow color with a springy elastic semi-firm texture, making it ideal for slicing. Danish Tilsit also has a piquant flavor, lending itself nicely as a table cheese.

A very strong version, called Farmhouse Tilsit, is another variety that is enjoyed by many who enjoy a more intense cheese. It is made from raw milk and is aged for about 5 months, which yields a strong-smelling cheese similar to Limburger in aroma. It is a much sought after version, but has the disadvantage of being less versatile than its milder cousin. Regular Danish Tilsit is used to flavor a wide variety of foods such as sauces and vegetable dishes. Extremely versatile, it can be cubed for use in salads, heated for addition to sauces, melted over potatoes, flans, or on burgers. It is a truly tasty and rather handy cheese to have at your disposal. What's more, it has the added value of pairing perfectly with a crisp Danish pilsner!

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Tasting Notes: A rare luxury in the United States, Tilsit is a fragrant surface-ripened cheese that is sure to satisfy. Immediately note this cheese's lovely buttery yellow color and tiny elliptical holes. We found the consistency to be springy and elastic, yet rather moist and creamy. Look for a mild flavor that's delicate with spicy undertones. Tilsit is similar to, but has a much fuller flavor, than Havarti. Think of it as Havarti with a flavor boost and aroma to match!

Tomme de Savoie

At the geographical union of northern and southern Europe you'll find the Rhone-Alps region, an area rich in culture, history and landscape. Here, at the meeting point of France, Switzerland and Italy, is a countryside long famous for creating celebrated wines and sumptuous cheeses. Abondance, Bleu de Gex, Beaufort, Comte, Chevrotin, Emmental, Fourme de Montbrison, Picodon, Reblochon, Rigottes, Saint Marcellin, and Tomme de Savoie are some of the hundreds of cheeses borne from these fertile lands.

The latter of these, Tomme de Savoie, is a semi-hard cow's milk variety. Its interior is a buttery beige color and typically has numerous holes (or eyes) pervading the pate. This bucolic gem is rather savory, yet surprisingly low in fat, weighing in somewhere in the range of 20-45%. The low fat content is due to the fact that it is made from the skim milk left over after the separated cream has been used to make butter or richer cheeses. This cheese comes from Savoie, a region on the eastern boarder of Switzerland, where these cheesemakers are well known for Tomme-style cheeses.

The word Tomme has various meanings, referring to the wheel-like shape of the cheese mold as well as implying that the product is made using milk from more than one herd. Despite the milk mélange that is sometimes employed in its production, this cheese has a characteristically simple flavor, which is a major component of its classic charm. Also simple is the naming scheme applied to this cheese, though it might not appear that way at first glance. Tomme cheeses are so named according to the region where they are produced, such as Savoie, the village in the Alps where this month's feature is made year round. And although this cheese is made throughout the year, many consider it to have a degree of seasonality, due to variances in character attributed to seasonal differences in feed: winter hay or summer grass. Overall the flavor can generally be described as nutty and earthy, with summer varieties often regarded as grassier than their winter made counterparts. Aging in traditional cellars for several months allows a thick rind to develop and often imparts a slight cellar cheese flavor.
 
Tomme de Savoie has often has tiny holes, is very savory with a mild aroma. Some cheese connoisseurs point out that this cheese is noted for its "fruity fragrance and rustic simplicity". One writer chooses as Tomme de Savoie as "a personal favorite - rustic, simple, delicious"!

Tasting Notes: The maturing process takes two or more months, producing a cheese with a rustic appearance - a thick, sometimes fuzzy, grey rind with patches of yellow or red molds. The pâté can be a buttery color or so pale that it is virtually white. It has many small eyes, and smells and tastes earthy like a cave. Tomme de Savoie is mild and creamy, fruity and nutty, but also a robust cheese with overtones of salt and an unmistakably raw flavor. Pair it with sausages, fruit, bread, and wine.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Appenzeller	A-pent-seller	Fruity white, Cru Beajolais or Burgundy
Danish Tilsit	TILL-sit	Strong reds, beer or ales
Tomme de Sovoie	TUM-duh-savWAH	Most light, fruity reds or whites