Past Newsletters

November 2006

We Give Our Thanks to You!

Thanksgiving. We all know what this holiday celebrates, and it isn't simply gorging ourselves with oversized portions of turkey and stuffing, contrary to popular belief. It is a time to appreciate and give thanks for the bounty that the year has brought us. Whether you've been a member for some time, or you are new to the club, please allow us to take a moment to thank you for letting us serve you. Your satisfaction is our passion. We are always grateful for the opportunity to deliver our hand-selected, sought-after, personal-favorite products to you, your family and friends. Thank you, and have a Happy Thanksgiving!

As far as we're concerned, there's no better example of a culinary cornucopia than our Cheese of the Month Club, as our regular subscribers will certainly attest. If you're a new member and have received this month's shipment as a gift, be sure to show your appreciation to the giver by sending them a reciprocal membership in one or more of our other Monthly Clubs. From gourmet chocolates to boutique wines, microbrewed domestic and international beers, premium hand-rolled cigars or fresh-cut flowers, our clubs feature great gifts that are sure to showcase your gratitude. Remember, Thanksgiving means that the holiday season is just around the corner. We have many ideas for that perfect gift!

Grafton Vermont Cheddar: Specially Selected Zingerman's Raw-Milk Cheddars From the Hills of Southern Vermont

It's a fact that this fantastic cheddar has been aging for 2 years, but what you are about to taste is the culmination of more than just the 2 years of patient and proper aging. You're about the experience the fruition of decades of artisan cheese-making expertise. We chose this cheddar because it is extraordinarily flavorful without the overly 'bitter bite' that marks so many aged cheddars. Although this bitterness is often associated with aged cheddar, maître fromagers and affineurs confirm that this is an undesirable characteristic; a sign of second-rate cheese-making and/or less desirable milk. A well made cheddar will acquire depth in its flavor without developing unsavory bitterness. This cheddar is without a doubt one of the most well-made varieties we have ever had the pleasure of tasting! We know you will be impressed by this cheese's complexity and intensity, remarkably long and delicious finish, and a sweetness that is incredible for cheddar of this age.

So, from where does a cheese of this caliber originate? England? France? This beautiful cheddar was born in the USA, in the rolling hills of Southern Vermont at the Grafton Village Cheese Company. Both domestically and internationally revered, this artisan cheese house is renowned for its cheddar products. They are part of the new wave of American farmhouse cheesemakers who have been energizing our taste buds with distinctive farmhouse cheeses for over a decade.

Passionate and Precise

We painstakingly select cheese for you each month that are high-quality and possess intense flavors. These qualities are hallmarks of this company's creations. At the Grafton Creamery, it takes about ten pounds of milk for every pound of savory cheddar. The raw milk comes from select herds of Jersey cows known for their extraordinarily creamy, high butterfat content milk, which contributes to the complex flavor, and supports the aging process. Take note, there aren't too many Jersey herds left in the US because their yield is so much lower than that of the more popular black and white Holstein's. Thus, their popularity in the mass-production market has waned. But considering the fact that everything at Grafton Village Cheese Company is done the old-fashioned, natural way, by hand, we're not surprised that they use this prized breed to make their delectable cheeses.

Scott Fletcher, their alchemist and skilled affineur, has been, as he puts it, "teaching milk how to be cheese for over thirty years." Scott employs five other cheesemakers who cherish the ancient process used at Grafton and employ it with passionate and precision.

Like fine wines, aging is a very important part in making a classic cheese. Managing this process perfectly is the true test of an expert cheesemaker. The passage of time under controlled conditions enables a cheese to take on specific characteristics that set it apart from others. Time makes cheddar more crumbly in texture, and gives it a greater concentration of salts and acids which is what provides its characteristic tanginess or sharpness, often called the "bite." Truly great cheddars, like Grafton Cheeses, are aged naturally so that they also retain a creamy smoothness. Before they go to market, each lot is tested and tasted by the Grafton cheesemakers. "At Grafton, quality control is a paramount virtue," says Scott. Plus, getting to relish in the fruits of their labor on a regular basis can't be too much of a chore!

Tasting Notes: If the only mature cheddars you've tried have had a strong bitter bite, then the creamy, smooth, gentle yet complex intensity of this one will really be a revelation. After tasting a few dozen different cheeses, the one selected for us by our skillful, fromageophile friends at Zingerman's was made back in 2004. When you taste it, you will notice that it has a very nutty flavor that hints of fresh fruit, and it is exceptionally creamy on the palate with a long-lasting, delicate finish! Of particular note is the versatility of this aged cheddar. Try it on salads, in cheese sauces, on sandwiches and as a snack, any way you slice it, its great flavor and great finish make for one really great cheese!

Pecorino Pepata: The Cheese that Bites Back!

Back in August we featured Pecorino Toscano, a true favorite of ours here at the club. As you may recall, Pecorino is the name given to all Italian cheeses made from sheep's milk. Most Pecorinos are oily cheeses because sheep's milk contains very high amounts of butterfat, which is one of the reasons this cheese is so delicious. So when Pecorino comes to room temperature don't be surprised if you see beads of oil on the cheese. These are 'butterfat tears' that weep naturally from the cheese, and they indicate that it's the perfect temperature for eating.

A Tidbit on Sheep's Milk Cheeses

Sheep's milk cheeses break down into smaller molecules in the body that is much easier to digest. Many lactose intolerant people find that they can enjoy sheep's milk cheeses without repercussions to their health. Imported cheese is often sealed in plastic when it travels to the U.S. to help prevent mold growth, but mold should be expected when dealing with natural cheese. Just cut it off and eat your cheese.
If you purchase a cheese wrapped in plastic, unwrap it immediately and let it breathe for several hours. A packaged cheese, especially a vacuum-sealed one, needs to breathe in order to return to it natural state.

Tasting Notes: While you wouldn't think to add pepper to a glass of milk, it does add a special piquancy to other dairy products. In India, lassi, a cold yogurt drink, is often made with black pepper. In France and Italy, peppercorns occasionally turn up in superb cheeses. Pecorino Pepata is a perfect example with its embedded whole black peppercorns that burst across the palate. Pecorino is usually eaten as a table cheese but will occasionally be shaved on top of fresh beans (perfect for summer salads) or lightly sautéed greens. Try it instead of Parmigiano, grating it over a plate of pasta dressed with olive oil and garlic, perhaps with the addition of just a bit more coarsely ground pepper, for an enticing dish. Its flavor is dense and the peppercorn sensation will bring new dynamics to your next meal.

Tetilla: Creamy, Delicious and Spainsh

The word "tetilla" translates literally to nipple, a name that clearly defines the traditional shape our third selection, that is, a flattened pear-shaped cone with a small nipple on the top. This is the most distinctive cheese from Galicia, a region in northwestern Spain. A predominantly farming culture, Galicia has the highest production of cow's milk in Spain. In each corner of the region, one can find cheesemakers producing Galician Tetilla cheese. Tetilla is easily recognized by its shape and smooth, yellow, straw-colored rind. This soft pastey cheese, thick and smooth with few air pockets, is very creamy on the palate and has a very clean and mellow flavor describable. It is buttery, but not salty, and melts easily in the mouth.

Some theories avow that this cheese comes from an 11th century convent, though evidence for this appears to be inconclusive. Traditionally, the milk used in the production of this cheese is from the rubia gallega cow (a.k.a. 'the Blonde Galician'). This is a breed that produces a small amount of milk, of superior quality, imparting a texture to the Tetilla similar to that of pressed paste. Whole milk is used and is usually combined with milks obtained in two consecutive milkings. It is an aged cheese, ranging in textures from soft to semi-cured. Viva Spanish Cheeses!
Wherever you go in Spain, from the vast, barren plains of Extremadura to the majestic beauty of the Sierra Nevada, you will find wonderful cheeses. At the last count, there were more than 600 clearly defined types, many owing their individual nature to the newest varieties of indigenous sheep, cows and goats that have developed over the centuries.

In 1988, aware this marvelous heritage could easily be lost as a new generation of Spaniards turned its back on the tradition and moved to the cities, the government initiated an ambitious survey. Their aim was to catalogue every cheese made in Spain. Much of the survey was carried out on horseback or on foot, in order to reach artisan cheese makers in the isolated, mountain regions whose cheeses had been made for centuries, but were unknown in the wider world. Recipes were compared, and a grand total of 81 distinct varieties of cheese were identified. A national quality control system, Denominacion de Origen (DO) was introduced. This organization regulates where a specific cheese must be made, which breed of animal must supply the milk, exactly how the cheese must be made and what size it must conform to. It also details any distinguishing characteristics. Similar to the systems that exist in France and Italy, it protects producers and consumers from inferior or foreign copies, as only those cheeses that meet the criteria may carry the official stamp on the rind.

Tasting Notes: This cheese can be eaten any time of the day. Tetilla is also suitable for cooking especially when used as a stuffing or in recipes that call for a melted cheese coating. It's wonderful to melt over plain or raisin bread. Try it tucked inside a baked potato or a frankfurter. Additionally, it can be served in thin slices, with cured "serrano" jam, chorizo and a glass of wine or dry sherry. Another suggestion is to serve it on slices of bread with roasted vegetables or artichoke hearts in oil.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Grafton Vermont Cheddar	CHEH-der	Light, fruity red wines or dark beers or ales are good pairings for cheddar.
Percorino Pepata	peh-koh-REE-noh peh-PAH-tah	A full-bodied red wine balancesthe strong peppercorn flavors.
Tetilla	teh-TEE-yah	A Pale Cream or a slightly sweet wine combines nicely with Tetilla. Perhaps a winemaker from Spain!