Past Newsletters

Vol. 6 No. 10

Fromage de Savoie, A Savoy Tradition

Every couple of years we like to feature a French cheese known as Reblochon. This famed fromage dates back to the middle ages and began its history in the Alps. Its birth was due to the ingenuity of the Savoy herdsmen. In the 13th century, the farmers were completely dependent on landowners who insisted that the entire herd's milk was their property. The landowners would keep track of all milk that was collected. This milk was used to calculate the annual rent, payable every month in the form of cheese. If you were like the typical peasant from that long ago period, you would figure that if you did not fully milk your cows, your tax base would be lower. So, you would wait until the tax collector had left to get the last drops of milk (the lesson here? Tax evasion is not a new thing).

The cheese made from this milk, richer in cream than that made from the earlier milk, was called rablassé (the origin of the word Reblochon), and was destined for the peasant's personal consumption. For centuries this cheese was not sold at the local markets, for obvious reasons, but around the 17th or 18th centuries, when taxes started to be paid in local currency rather than in goods, the cheese began to be sold to the public at large. The local merchant and noble classes, as well as the clergy, discovered the taste of these cheeses and started asking for them at their tables. Thus, the Reblochon became a cheese not only for the mountains, but also for the city.

Reblochon was the first cheese of the Savoy region to be granted the AOC certification, in 1958. Nowadays the cheese is made by mixing the milks of three different breeds of cow: abondance, tarine, and montbéliarde. Unfortunately, we in the U.S. are no longer allowed to import cheese made from unpasteurized milk that is less than 60 days aged—which is exactly what Reblochon is. There are other fine examples of this cheese made outside the confines of the AOC certified region, but as a consequence of being name protected, they obviously cannot carry the same name. Fromage de Savoie is essentially the same cheese as Reblochon, but it’s made with pasteurized milk, which for us means that we have found an importable cheese to serve as a work around, which still delivers the full flavor profile of authentic Reblochon.

Comte, How the French Say Cheese

Comté is a cheese made using time honored traditions in the French-Comte region of France in the Jura Mountains bordering Switzerland. These plateaus, known for their rugged terrain but lush green fields, are the reason Comte is known as a “mountain” cheese.

The main characteristic of Comté is its exceptional aromatic diversity. A study carried out in 1993 by a professional tasting jury identified more than 200 aromatic components. It is not necessary to be an expert however for tasting different Comtés to be a surprising experience. One young Comté may exude a distinct odor of fresh hazelnuts while another will reveal a more discreet touch of nutmeg. A young, 6-month old Comté will bring to mind the delicate smell of buttery mashed potatoes while an older, more patiently aged specimen like the one we bring you may surprise you with its cascade of fruity, spicy, and roasted flavors that unfold gradually and lastingly in the palate. Each Comté has its own unique aromatic and unpredictable perfume to set free. This exceptional diversity can be attributed to a couple of different factors: The first is connected to the diversity of the land itself. The apparent unity and geological and historical coherence of the region do not detract from the variety of the soils, the microclimates and the flora which naturally create what could be called "cru" just like in the world of wine-making. In the heart of the Jura massif, the old folk are even capable of distinguishing in which cheese dairy a particular cheese was made with their eyes closed. The second factor is attributed to the duration of the maturing period which enables nature to unfold its divine alchemy at a leisurely pace.

A Nomadic Tradition From the Castillian-Leonesa Plateau: Zamorano

To find the source of the third of this month’s featured cheeses, head southwest from the Alps, cross the Pyrenees and stop once you find yourself in the famed Spanish province of Zamora, in the Autonomous Community of Castilla y Leon. For over a century this region, located northwest of Madrid, has earned praise and enjoyed fame for its fantastic ewe milk cheeses. You’re probably already familiar with Manchego cheese, Spain’s best-known sheep milk cheese. However, you may not be as well acquainted with this other variety, made much the same way, which has likewise been adored by locals and the international community for more than 100 years. Made from the milk of the Castilian and Churra breeds of sheep native to this province, this pressed cheese has a distinctive, slightly piquant flavor, which is full-bodied and long-lasting on the palate.

As with all cheese, the flavor of Zamorano comes from a unique combination of terrestrial elements, which ultimately influence both the milk of the animals from which it is made, as well as the behavior of the people who create it. The continental climate of this region of Spain provides an abundance of pastures upon which these specific sheep feed. In fact, there are some 60,000 animals registered at the Regulating Council, a body that governs various aspects of cheese production, including, as the name implies, strict regulation of the cheese-making process, which has been protected by the Denomination of Origin since 1993.

These sheep produce a hefty volume of milk annually; over 4 million gallons are used exclusively for cheese (which is, if you can believe it, only about ¼ of their total annual production), yielding over 330 tons of Zamorano cheese per year! And again, we can thank these two breeds of Spanish sheep for this delicacy, as it’s no small task to produce the amount of milk necessary to satisfy the world’s craving for this delight.
Despite the large amount of cheese produced per year, the meticulous attention paid to the processing stages and methods ensures consistent flavor and quality. But it wasn’t always produced in this highly regulated form. This cheese was originally made and developed by nomadic families who moved from place to place throughout the Castillian countryside, taking their flocks of sheep with them to each new grazing land. Wherever they would settle for the time being, they would unpack their cheese-making utensils and spend months at a time making their goods. When they would finally return to their home province of Zamora, they would sell their cheese in local markets, but they usually left some to ripen for extended periods of time in underground cellars or caves. These particularly aged cheeses were later sold at a higher price, or consumed by the families that produced them.

The primary time for producing their famed cheese was during the spring and summer months, during which they would make batch after batch that they would then sell, or keep through the winter. They followed the same annual rhythm of producing and selling cheeses until assuming a more sedentary lifestyle in the later half of the century, when they started building small artisan cheese factories, where many families still work today, keeping with them the tradition of curing these unique cheeses in the caves of the Zamoran province.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Fromage de Savoie	Froh-MAHZH de sah-VWAH	Robust reds such as Côtes de Nuit, Saint-Émilion, Côtes du Rhône, Chateauneuf du Pape or full-bodied, dry white wines like Chardonnay Reserve, Chardonnay Single Vineyards, or Founder's Reserve Chardonnay.
Comte	Cone-TAY	Dry full-bodied red wines such as Cabernet Franc Reserve,Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Zamorano	zah-moh-RAH-noh	Rioja, aged Spanish sherry (especially Cream Sherry if you can find it!) or even Sangria.

Tasting Notes

Fromage de Savoie: Produced in the French Alps, this cheese is made by mixing the milks of three different breeds of cow: abondance, tarine, and montbéliarde. Expect it to be creamy, ever so slightly salty, and, quite simply, delicious! It goes nicely with many different types of wines, and is a great cheese not only to serve at the end of a meal as part of a cheese board, but also to melt into a crepe, or cut into little chunks and serve as an appetizer. With its unique taste it's the perfect complement to France's popular Comte cheese.

Comte Extra: All Comte is graded using a 20 point grading system. 15 points or higher denotes a labeling of "Comte Extra". We found it salty, mild, and lightly fruity with hazelnut and nutmeg flavors. This cheese works well in a fondue, as part of a cheese platter or in a hot, melted sandwich. It's also suitable for snacking or tossed as cubes in a salad. Thanks to its uniqueness, its cultural importance, and its economic contribution to the region, Comté cheese was one of the first cheeses to be awarded a label of origin guaranteeing its quality (AOC). As one of the premiere cheeses of France, we know you'll enjoy this exquisite taste of French living. Bon appetit!

Zamorano: A well-known and respected Spanish cheese, it is usually produced in the shape of drum. The cheese is very similar to Castelanno and Manchego in texture, but is less grainy. Its natural rind is covered in gray mold. The flavor offers a hint of burnt caramel and the buttery taste of sheep's milk, with some intense, piquant highlights. Zamorano is most frequently enjoyed as a table cheese.