Past Newsletters

Vol. 6 No. 1

Happy New Year!

Whether you’re a continuing member of The Gourmet Cheese of the Month Club, or a first time subscriber, we’re very happy to have you with us! Regardless of which category you fall into, know that you are definitely starting the year off right with this month’s three country collection of premium cheeses. Enjoy, and welcome to 2005, a year that is forecasted to be full of delicious cheese treasures!

Stilton—A Village at the Right Place at the Right Time

Stilton, first made in the midlands of England, takes its name from the village of Stilton. No big surprise there. But what may come as a shock is the fact that no Stilton has ever been made there! It was actually made in the nearby town known as Melton Mowbray, and sold in the shops of Stilton (though we’re not certain if Melton Mowbray was the actual town of origin for the first precursor to Stilton cheese). You’ll find the town of Stilton about 80 miles north of London along the Great North Road. It was here that the coaches traveling between London and Scotland and other northern cities made their first stop for fresh horses and overnight stays. Its convenient location made the village a center marketplace for cheeses. Travelers of the day were clearly smitten with the blue cheese found in Stilton markets; word about its remarkable flavor spread far and wide. And so it would be that this thoroughfare village eventually lent its name to the famed blue cheese.

300 years after gaining popularity in its namesake town, Stilton is still handmade exclusively in the counties of Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire, and Derbyshire from local milk. Only six dairies, using the original centuries-old recipe, are licensed to produce this creamy, ivory-colored king of cheeses.

Drink a pot of ale, eat a scoop of Stilton, every day, and you will make ‘old bones’.
— Nineteenth Century saying

According to Trevor Hickman, resident of Wymondham (why-mon-dum) in East Leicestershire and Stilton historian, the origins of the cheese are somewhat uncertain. It is known that a blue-veined cow’s milk cream cheese was produced by farmers at Wymondham long ago, but the first written reference to Stilton cheese was not until 1722. Other references recorded at about the same time indicate that Stilton was very popular even then, so we can presume that this English blue was created some time in the early 1700s, though it is possible that it had its origins in the 17th century.

Other details that are known in the history of Stilton include the identity of the person credited with creating the quality and shape standards for the cheese: Frances Pawlett, a skilled Wymondham cheese maker. Her skill at cheese making and her husband’s business acumen led to the first marketing cooperative for Stilton Cheese which set standards that all other cheese makers had to meet for blued cream cheese in order to carry the name of Stilton. Along with the help of Cooper Thornhill, owner of the famous Bell Inn of Stilton, the Pawletts helped build the trade in Stilton cheese to record levels.

Today Stilton is made much the same way as it was in the 1700’s. In 1936, The Stilton Cheese Makers Association was formed to maintain the quality standards and protect the trademark of Stilton. Long known as “The King of Cheeses”, blue Stilton is one a handful of British cheeses granted the status of a “protected designation origin” (PDO) by the European Commission. This means only authorized creameries can make true Stilton, operating only in the three counties of Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire, and Derbyshire. So esteemed is Stilton’s unique flavor and texture, it is the only British cheese graced with its own certification trademark.

How is Stilton Made?

Early each morning fresh pasteurized milk is fed into an open vat to which acid forming bacteria (starter cultures), a milk clotting agent (such as rennet) and “penicillium roqueforti” (blue mould spores) are added. Once the curds have formed, the whey is removed and the curds are allowed to drain overnight. The following morning, the curd is then cut into blocks to allow further drainage before being milled and salted. Each cheese requires about 24 lbs of salted curd, which is fed into cylindrical moulds. The moulds are then placed on boards and turned daily to allow natural drainage for 5 or 6 days. This ensures an even distribution of moisture throughout the cheese so that it creates the flaky, open texture required for the important blueing stage. The cheese is then transferred to the store where temperature and humidity are carefully controlled. Each cheese is turned regularly during this ripening period.

So how does this cheese get blue? As you can see, the basic recipe for blue cheese starts out like any other cheese. The difference is the addition of the blue mold spores added to the milk. Since mold needs air to grow, the cheeses are pierced with stainless steel needles when they are about 6 weeks old and have formed the traditional Stilton crust, allowing air to enter the body of the cheese and permitting the growth of its famed blue veins.

At about 9 weeks of age, by which time each cheese will weigh about 17 lbs, the cheese is ready to be sold. But before this happens every cheese must be graded using a cheese iron. The iron is used to bore into the cheese and extract a plug of cheese. By visual inspection and by smell the grader can determine whether the cheese is up to the mark and able to be sold as Stilton. Cheese that does not satisfy the Stilton criteria will be sold simply as “blue cheese.” Ah, to have the life of a cheese grader… Now, we’re an honest bunch ourselves here at the club, but if we had this job, it’s tough to imagine not downgrading a few true Stilton blues to plain “blue cheese” and then snagging these cheaper versions for ourselves!

Brie, The Queen of Cheeses

Since we’re featuring Stilton, the King of Cheeses as the Brits claim, we’ve included our velvety French friend Brie, the Queen of cheeses. Acclaimed as one of the world’s great cheeses, Brie is characterized by a downy-white edible rind and a cream-colored, buttery-soft interior that will ooze at the peak of ripeness. Though several countries produce this popular cheese, we have selected the finest selection from France. Considered the best in the world, the French tradition of making Brie dates back to the 8th century. Sorry, is that right? Let us check the books for a moment… uh huh… uh huh… yup, says it right here—the 8th century! Wow!! Actually, there is some evidence that places Brie’s origins all the way back to the 5th century! But definitive documentation comes to us from Charlemagne’s chronicler, Eginhard de Saint Gall, who reported that the Emperor enjoyed it at the Priory of Rueil in the town of Brie in the year 774.

Clearly the French have got the art of making Brie down to a science, and we are proud to deliver the quality and flavor that only an authentic cheese such as this can offer. The selection of this great cheese is an all-important process, which is why we employ the great expertise of the folks at Zingermans. Brie must be perfectly ripe for the best flavor, and so we bring you one that is plump and resilient to the touch, with a rind that might show some pale brown edges.

It is an interesting story how this cheese earned its regal subtitle, “The Queen of Cheeses”. At the Congress of Vienna in the year 1815, representatives of 30 nations were brought together after the Battle of Waterloo to reconstruct the map of Europe. As a reprieve from the serious business of rehabilitating whole regions of the world after the devastating battles that took place, these gentlemen invited those in power to prestigious balls and banquets. On one such occasion, several were discussing the merits of various cheeses, at which point they decided to choose, and present, a cheese of their liking at the next fete. Monsieur de Talleyrand brought a Brie, which was immediately and unanimously proclaimed “Queen of Cheeses.”

Slave to the Rind

The rind on any cheese plays a very important role, but in no other cheese-style is it as responsible for affecting the flavor and texture as much as in Brie or other mold-ripened cheeses. With these cheeses, the maturing process is critical, for without the proper care, the rind can die, or worse, run rampant. In either case, the cheese is lost. It is an important role of the affineur to coax the rind to flourish, and then select just the right moments to “tame” the rind, so the cheese evolves into the alluring, tasty mystery that captivates so many.

The mold’s job is to protect the fresh curd. Any fresh cheese would begin to grow a rind of mold if left in the right conditions. The rind actually extends the life of the fragile curd, acting as a barrier to contaminants and holding in the moisture. Rinds also have a lot to do with the ripening of the interior. The mold grows “roots” down into the cheese and as the roots grow, they change the consistency from firm to soft. These roots are not visible to the naked eye, but if you’ve ever cut into a cheese and it still has a chalky center, it is because the “roots” did not yet extend to the center.

Antique Emmentaler

Cheese has long been a staple of the Swiss diet—a fact that is hardly surprising in a nation where, until recent times, dairy cows outnumbered people. Our third selection this month hails from the central cantons of Switzerland. The etymology of the word Emmental provides a clue to its origin: Emme is the name of a river in Switzerland and ‘Tal’ means valley. The Emmental valley is probably the best-known valley in Switzerland and its residents are considered to be hard working, thoughtful, and independent.

In its beginnings, which sources traces back to the early 1500s, Emmentaler was not manufactured with trade in mind. Rather, it was used for preserving the milk of the significant herds. This technique spread, with almost all the Alpine nations ultimately developing a production of Emmentaler. These days, it takes 1 ½ tons of milk to make one 220 pound wheel of Emmentaler, which doesn’t really sound like an efficient way to preserve the milk that’s gone in to it now does it… Certainly, times have changed, as Emmentaler is these days, a very widely traded cheese.

Quantity AND Quality—Take a Lesson from the Swiss Cheese Trade!

Emmentaler provides a window into the ingenuity and willpower of the Swiss. Faced with a huge demand for their cheese, they could have easily consolidated operations, built huge factories and churned out the giant wheels at a quick clip. They didn’t. Instead, Swiss cheese is made in over 1,500 small dairies lining the Emme valley. Each dairy makes a wheel or two of strictly controlled, raw milk cheese, under the watchful eye of the ever important Swiss Cheese Association.

This system allows for more careful, hands-on cheese making with higher overall quality. With the high prices of fuel, the Swiss Cheese Association thought it made more sense to move the milk short distances to make the cheese, then truck the wheels (which makes a lot of sense when you consider the volume of milk required to produce each wheel). The fact that the Swiss built an organization around these two principals: artisan quality cheese making and finely honed economics, is anecdotal evidence that you actually can have it all!

How do the holes get into the cheese?

The characteristic holes of Emmentaler cheese are formed during the maturing process in the fermentation cellar. What’s that? You want a more scientific explanation? Ok, here goes… The heat in the fermentation cellar causes propionic acid to ferment, leading to a production of carbon dioxide gas byproduct which forms within the body of the cheese. As the cheese rind becomes harder and harder with age, it forms a natural barrier, preventing the gas from escaping outwards. As a result, the gas accumulates in various places in the body of the cheese, displacing an equal volume of the body of the cheese and leaving, what else, the famed Swiss cheese holes.

One striking characteristic of many kinds of cheese is the varying number, size, and distribution of the holes. If they are particularly regular and round in shape, they are called “eyes”. While there are some kinds of cheese with a body that should be as “closed” as possible, there are others in which these holes are essential, and this is definitely the case with Emmentaler cheese, in which the formation of the holes is a clear feature of the type and quality. Emmentaler has large, nearly walnut-sized holes. It is considered to be one of the most difficult cheeses to be produced because of its complicated hole-forming fermentation process.

Tasting Notes

Stilton: More mild than Roquefort or Gorgonzola, Stilton has a rich and mellow flavor with a pungent aftertaste. A lot of people claim to dislike blue cheese—but that’s because most have not encountered Colston Bassett Stilton. Most Stilton cheese sold in the states is dry, sharp, and very acidic. Why? Well the main reason is that it’s sold too young. Stilton needs to be matured to allow the mold that creates the distinctive flavors to develop. The finest Stilton is creamy with a subtle yeasty sweetness and a salty, nutty finish. In fact, the way to judge the quality of your Stilton is by how creamy it is (not by how blue it is). Excellent for crumbling over salads or as a dessert cheese, served with a Port Wine. Just be sure to let your Stilton come to room temperature before enjoying!

Brie: This creamy cheese is made with phenomenally rich milk, producing a voluptuous center. Because wild grasses and flowers flavor the milk, different Brie varieties present their own unique flavor, influenced by the flora of a particular time and place. Brie is an excellent dessert cheese. Try it with croissants, soft bread rolls, melons or grapes. A good party cheese as well, it is often enjoyed along with a Bourgogne, Cabernet, or Medoc. Or, try it with a fruity Japanese Plum wine. Its silky, unctuous texture and nutty, whipped cream flavor make it particularly good with light champagne.

Antique Emmentaler: With its sweet aroma and notes of fresh-cut hay, along with its fruity flavor, this cheese tastes delicious with a glass of Jura Blanc. Authentic Swiss cheese is never harsh or bitter, but should present a degree of acidity in the finish. As you will notice with each piece of Antique Emmental, the smoothness is quite pronounced. Its normal intense, sweet nuttiness has mellowed, leaving a long, swelling feeling of warmth in your mouth. Your Emmentaler is well over 12 months old—most Emmental is less than 6 months old. Enjoy!