Past Newsletters

Vol. 5 No. 4

Charouce

One Cheese, Many Textures

The legendary Champagne region in the northeast of France is also known for a small, round, soft cheese that is covered in a white edible bloomy rind. It's made with cows' milk and has a slightly higher butter fat content than brie. If you asked a citizen of France, Where can I find Charouce [shah-OORS],” they might say, Do you mean the cheese or the village?” We know you would take pleasure in both!

Today you can find the cheese, Charouce, in smart Parisian fromagéries, but imagine eating this cheese in its place of origin - the medieval village of Charouce, where you can still see implausible architectural remnants of the 13th Century! Those were the days that you might have bumped into Italy's Dante, Thomas Aquinas, Francis of Assisi, Louis IX French crusader, and Frederick II - Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Assuredly, most of them enjoyed this cheese, just as you will!

Years ago, Charouce was eaten when it was young or demi-sec (slightly dry), as they say in France. Today, Charouce is usually preferred when it has ripened for a longer period of time. At an advanced stage of maturity, there will be reddish stripes on the rind. The aging gives it a round appearance to each cheese because its strong acidity prevents the heart of the white pate from maturing. Like all cheese, flavor characteristics of Charouce are affected by age. As you may already know, a cheese by the same name may be strongly pungent or smooth and buttery depending on its maturity. Texture is also strongly dependent on age and can vary as much, or more, than flavor - Charouce being a great example of this feature. When im-mature or unripe, the pate is solid and flaky. After sufficient ripening however, it becomes soft, easily spreadable and even runny. Many of the biochemical mechanisms responsible for these transformations of flavor and firmness have yet to be elucidated. However, it is known that various factors such as protein
and lipid breakdown are in-volved, and these principle reactions are not only dependent on time but also temperature, moisture, pH, enzymes kinetics, and a host of other parameters all of which are of critical importance in the production of your favorite cheeses. No doubt, artisan cheesemon-gers have experienced many aberrations over the ages before they succeeded in getting the combinations of ingredients, time and process just right!

French cheeses are widely recognized as some of the finest in the world. The natural geography of the French countryside, with its lush plateaus, nestled between mountainous peaks, gives rise to many sizeable acreages perfectly suited for pasturing. The Alps in particular, crossing French borders into Switzerland, Italy and Southern Germany, are the pillars of the cheese making industry in Europe. The range is vast and due to the size of the montanic expanse, the Alps actually command their own unique climatic regions. As it happens, these weather characteristics have been ideal for yielding everything from verdant grasslands for grazing milk-bearing animals, to damp caves for cheese maturation. Trés Fantastique for us fans of fromage!

Tasting Notes
Charouce
When it is young, Charouce tastes slightly sour or acidic, with a flaky texture-and-mild-presence.-As-it matures, the flavor becomes fruity and nutty with a mushroom-like aroma and increased sharpness. It has a buttery, runny texture typical of triple crèmes. Of course the perfect way to savor Charouce is with a glass of rose Champagne, but it also-complements-Burgundy-and Chablis. When it's very ripe, serve Charouce with a spoon, or try spreading it on pumpernickel, rye bread, or a multigrain roll.

Sainte Maure

Surprises Inside and Out!
Sainte Maure is made in the Touraine region of the Loire Valley. The Loire Valley flows from the moun-tains of the Central Massif, and runs from the heart of north-central France 620 miles west to the Atlantic. Sainte Maure is considered to be the masterpiece of the popular Touraine goat cheeses. If you have the pleasure of experiencing this cheese while in France, you'll definitely get a version that is made with raw milk. Outside this locale the flavor may differ somewhat since many exported varieties are pasteurized.

As you'll notice, this cheese has a very distinct, easily recognizable appearance. It is always made in the shape of a log and is rolled in a black wood ash with hues ranging from deep black coal to ash grey. Other colors are derived from the blue and white molds which appear on the edible rind. Another interesting feature is seen in cross section. While we often note the appearance, or lack of, eyes (holes) in the body of a cheese, a more striking feature presents itself here. You'll find a long piece of straw running the length of the log, right through the center. This straw acts as a spacer that permits ample ventilation through the interior during aging, while also imparting its subtle flavor (obviously stronger at the center). In addition to fine cheeses, the viticu-ltural fortitude of the Loire Valley yields an astounding array of incomparable wines, many of which we feature on a regular basis in our Wine of the Month Club. Whether it's a robust red, a flowery rose, a fruity white, or a dry white with subtle tones of oak, we ship some of the most extraordinary wines at excellent prices. Our monthly features are selected by a panel of professional wine tasters in fact, the chairman just left for Chili to discover more outstanding wines for our members. You can view exactly what we have shipped by checking the news-letters” and featured wines” links. Go to www.monthlyclubs.com today to get your subscription going and the fine wine flowing!

Tasting Notes
Sainte-Maure
Sainte Maure is delicious at many ages. When it's young and fresh, it smells like walnuts and has a light buttery, nutty flavor. This cheese ages well, and as it matures becomes drier and slightly salty. Blue and white molds which are edible appear on the rind and give Sainte Maure de Touraine a more complex, robust, and tangy flavor with earthy yet citrusy accents. It goes particularly well with other Loire Valley classics, such as an esteemed Vouvray white, a Chinon red or a dry Bourgueil rosé.

Mirabo Walnut

Mirabo Walnut is a cheese with little history as far as we know, but it sure is tasty! Bavaria's Käserei Champignon introduced this soft ripened rind cheese made with cows milk combined with crème fraiche. Mirabo is easy to recog-nize with its exclusive blossom shape and fine white mold. Walnut Mirabo has pate that is a soft and creamy delight with the finest crushed walnuts, speckled throughout.

Käserei Champignon of Bavaria, Ger-many is a family owned business and was founded by, Julius Hirschle and Leopold Immler over 90 years ago. In 1908, they were first noted for their special mushroom Camembert, which today has become a staple for many cheese boards. Käserei Champignon's headquarters and main production plant are located in Heising, in the pristine countryside of the Bavarian Alps. It is here that their free grazing cows enjoy the plush, green valleys that help produce their rich Bavarian milk. Their precious cheese making heritage, handed down from generation to generation, combined with the latest in advanced technology, and their dedication to the highest quality has brought Käserei Champignon to the forefront, as a recognized leader in the industry.

Champignon is actually a German interpretation of Brie. Most varieties are made with pasteurized milk, some with added cream. All of them are soft, velvety cheeses with mild, but pleasantly sophisticated flavors. They are allowed to ripen naturally in the traditional manner - from rind to the center, until they reach the pinnacle of perfection. Enjoy Mirabo Walnut and other German Bries at peak flavor by unwrapping them to let the cheeses breathe and come to room temperature.

Tasting Notes
Mirabo-Walnut
Made in the fertile land of Bavaria, this brie-style cheese with walnuts is delicate and ripened to a soft constancy. Its unique shape and presentation really sets it apart on a cheese board, and its delicate flavor is sure to please. Serve it with many of the excellent German Rieslings and Gewürz-traminers. As with all classic Bries, Mirabo Walnut is outstanding with a full-bodied white wine such as Ruländer or Morio-Muscat, or with a smooth, elegant red wine such as Blauburgunder or Bordeaux. This nouveau cheese is out of this world as a des-sert cheese. Serve it with honey drizzled on the top and fruit, or try this simple recipe.

Recipe

You Will Need:
• 15 pre-baked mini filo tartlet shells
• 2 Tablespoon seedless raspberry, blackberry or apricot jam
• 4 Ounce Mirabo Walnut cheese, rind removed

Recipe Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Place approximately G to H tsp. of jam in the bottom of each filo tartlet shell. Place approximately 1 tsp. cheese over the jam in each shell. Bake for 3 to 5 minutes or until cheese is just melted. Serve immediately.