Past Newsletters
Vol. 5 No. 11
We Give Our Thanks to You!
Thanksgiving… We
all know what this holiday celebrates, and it isn’t simply gorging ourselves
with oversized portions of turkey and stuffing, contrary to popular belief.
It is a time to appreciate and give thanks for the bounty that the year has
brought us. Wouldn’t you agree that there are few things to be as grateful
for as large spreads of delicious consumables? And as far as we’re concerned,
there’s no better example of a culinary cornucopia than our Cheese of
the Month Club, as our regular subscribers will certainly attest. If you’re
a new member and have received this month’s shipment as a gift, be sure
to show your appreciation to the giver (may we suggest you send them a reciprocal
membership in one or more of our other Monthly Clubs—from Gourmet Chocolates,
Boutique Wines, Microbrewed Domestic and International Beers, Premium Hand-Rolled
Cigars or Fresh-Cut Flowers, our clubs feature great gifts that are sure to
showcase your gratitude. And remember, Thanksgiving means that the holiday
season is just around the corner… Got any ideas for that perfect gift?
We do!!).
Whether you’ve been a member for some time, or you are new to the club,
please allow us to take a moment to thank you for letting us serve you—your
satisfaction is our passion, and we are always grateful for the opportunity
to deliver our hand-selected, sought-after, personal-favorite products to you,
your family and friends. Thank you, and have a happy Thanksgiving!!
2 Year Aged Grafton Vermont Cheddar
Specially Selected Zingerman's Raw-Milk Cheddars From the Hills of Southern Vermont
It’s a fact that this fantastic
cheddar has been aging for 2 years, but what you are about to taste is the
culmination of more than just the 2 years
of patient and proper aging—you’re about the experience the fruition
of decades of artisan cheese-making expertise. We chose this cheddar because
it is extraordinarily flavorful without the overly ‘bitter bite’ that
marks so many aged cheddars. Although this bitterness is often associated with
aged cheddar, maître fromagers and affineurs confirm that this is an
undesirable characteristic—a sign of second-rate cheese-making and/or
less desirable milk. A well made cheddar will acquire depth in its flavor without
developing unsavory bitterness, and this cheddar is without a doubt among the
most well-made varieties we have ever had the pleasure of tasting! We know
you will be impressed by this cheese’s complexity and intensity, remarkably
long and delicious finish, and a sweetness that is incredible for cheddar of
this age.
So where does a cheese of this caliber originate from? England? France? Nope… this beautiful specimen was born in the USA, in the rolling hills of Southern Vermont at the Grafton Village Cheese Company. Both domestically and internationally, this artisan cheese house is renowned for its Cheddar products. They are part of the New Wave of American Farmhouse Cheesemakers, who have been energizing our taste buds with distinctive farmhouse cheeses for over a decade.
Passionate and Precise
Like most of the cheeses we painstakingly select for you each month,
quality and intense flavors that awaken your palate are the hallmarks of this
company’s
creations. At the Grafton Creamery, it takes about ten pounds of Jersey milk
for every pound of savory cheddar. The raw milk comes from select herds of
Jersey cows known for their extraordinarily creamy, high butterfat content
milk, which contributes to the complex flavor, and supports the aging process.
Take note, there aren’t too many Jersey herds left in the US because
their yield is so much lower than that of the more popular black and white
Holstein’s. Thus, their popularity in the mass-production market has
waned. But considering the fact that everything at Grafton Village Cheese Company
is done the old-fashioned, natural way: by hand, we’re not surprised
that they use this prized breed to make their delectable cheeses.
Scott Fletcher,
their alchemist and skilled affineur, has been, as he puts it, “teaching
milk how to be cheese for over thirty years.” Scott
employs five other cheesemakers, and together they cherish this ancient process,
employing it passionately and with precision.
Like fine wines, aging is a very important process in the making of a classic
cheese. Managing this process to perfection is the true test of an expert cheesemaker.
The passage of time under controlled conditions enables a cheese to take on
specific characteristics that set it apart from others. Time makes cheddar
more crumbly in texture, and gives it a greater concentration of salts and
acids, providing its characteristic tanginess or sharpness, often called the “bite.” Truly
great cheddars, like Grafton Cheeses, are aged naturally so that they also
retain a creamy smoothness. Before they go to market, each lot is tested and
tasted by the Grafton cheesemakers. “At Grafton, quality control is a
paramount virtue,” says Scott. Plus, getting to relish in the fruits
of their labor on a regular basis can’t be too much of a chore, don’t
you think?
Pecorino Pepata
The Cheese that Bites Back!
Back in August we featured Pecorino Toscano, a true favorite of ours here
at the club. As you may recall, Pecorino is the name given to all Italian cheeses
made from sheep’s milk. Pecorino Romano, for example, is the name given
to such cheeses from the Rome area, Pecorino Sardo is from Sardinia, Pecorino
Siciliano from Sicily and, well… you get the idea. For your second selection
this month we thought you should have a cheese that will spice up those cool
fall evenings. Prepare your senses for Pecorino Pepato. Can you guess where
this nifty little cheese is from? If you guessed Pepato, well, you’re
wrong. OK, that wasn’t really fair; we set you up for that one. Actually,
in this case, the second part of the name is not a regional locator, it refers
to a variety, be it Romano, Toscano or Sardo that is spiced with peppercorns
(though it is most often the Romano variety). These cheeses are generally aged
up to a year, and develop a brittle, hard texture and a yellowish rind, and
just as an F.Y.I., the younger cheeses are softer and whiter in all Pecorinos.
Most Pecorinos are oily cheeses because sheep’s milk contains very high amounts of butterfat, which is one of the reasons this cheese is so delicious. So when Pecorino comes to room temperature don't be surprised if you see beads of oil on the cheese, these are ‘butterfat tears’ that weep naturally from the cheese, and they indicate that it’s the perfect temperature for eating.
A Tidbit on Sheep’s Milk Cheeses
Sheep’s milk cheeses break down
into smaller molecules in the body that is much easier to digest. Many lactose
intolerant people find that they can
enjoy sheep’s milk cheeses without repercussions to their health. Sweet
Mother-of-Cow! Bring on the cheese!
Cheese is a living, breathing organism. Imported cheese is often sealed in
plastic when it travels to the U.S. to help prevent mold growth, but mold should
be expected when dealing with natural cheese. Just cut it off and eat your
cheese.
If you purchase a cheese wrapped in plastic, unwrap it immediately and let it breathe for several hours. A packaged cheese, especially a vacuum-sealed one, has been in a ‘coma,’ and it needs to breathe fresh air in order to return to it natural state.
Tetilla
Creamy, Delicious and Spainsh—What More Can You Ask For?
The word “tetilla” translates
literally to nipple, a name that clearly defines the traditional shape our
third selection, that is, a flattened
pear-shaped cone with a small nipple on the top. This is the most distinctive
cheese from Galicia, a region in northwestern Spain. A predominantly farming
culture, Galicia has the highest production of cow’s milk in Spain. In
each corner of the region, one can find cheese-makers producing Galician Tetilla
cheese. Easily recognized by its shape and smooth, yellow straw-colored rind,
the soft paste of this cheese, thick and smooth with few air pockets, is very
creamy on the palate, with a flavor describable as very clean and mellow. It
is buttery, but not salty, and melts easily in the mouth.
Some theories avow
that this cheese comes from an 11th century convent, though evidence for this
appears to be inconclusive. Traditionally, the milk used
in the production of this cheese is from the rubia gallega cow breed (a.k.a. ‘the
Blonde Galician’). This is a breed that produces a small amount of milk,
of superior quality, imparting a texture to the Tetilla similar to that of
pressed paste. The milk used is whole and usually is the combination of milks
obtained in two consecutive milkings. It is an aged cheese, ranging in textures
from soft to semi-cured.
Viva Spanish Cheeses!
Wherever you go in Spain, from the vast, barren plains of Extremadura to the majestic beauty of the Sierra Nevada, you will find wonderful cheeses. At the last count, there were more than 600 clearly defined types, many owing their individual nature to the newest varieties of indigenous sheep, cows and goats that have developed over the centuries.
In 1988, aware this marvelous heritage
could easily be lost as a new agent generation of Spaniards turned its back
on the tradition and moved to the
cities, the government initiated an ambitious survey; their aim was to
catalogue every
cheese made in Spain. Much of the survey had been carried out on horseback
or on foot, in order to reach artisan cheese makers in the isolated, mountain
regions whose cheeses had been made for centuries, but were unknown in
the wider world.
Recipes were compared, and a grand total of 81 distinct varieties of cheese were identified. A national quality control system, Denominacion de Origen (DO) was introduced. This organization regulates where a specific cheese must be made, which breed of animal must supply the milk, exactly how the cheese must be made and what size it must conform to. It also details any distinguishing characteristics. Similar to the systems that exist in France and Italy, it protects producers and consumers from inferior or foreign, copies, as only those cheeses that meet the criteria may carry the official stamp on the rind.
Tasting Notes:
2 Year Aged Grafton Vermont Cheddar
If the only mature cheddars you've tried have been bite-y and bitter, then the creamy, smooth, gentle yet complex intensity of this one will really be a revelation. After tasting a few dozen different cheeses, the one selected for us by our skillful, fromageophile friends at Zingerman’s was made way back in 2002. They had their pick of one-, two- and four-year-old cheddars to choose from, however because we featured the four-year-old variety last year, we asked for a two-year-old rendition for comparison. Not surprisingly, we absolutely loved it! When you taste it yourself, you notice that it has a very nutty flavor that hints of fresh fruit, and it is exceptionally creamy on the palate with a long-lasting, delicate finish! We've been eating our original tasting samples at home for a few weeks now, and they’re still a truly sinful pleasure. Of particular note is the versatility of this aged cheddar. Try it on salads, in cheese sauces, on sandwiches and as a snack, any way you slice it, its great flavor and great finish make for one really great cheese!
Percorino Pepata
While you wouldn’t think to add pepper to a glass of milk, it does add a special piquancy to other dairy products. In India, lassi, a cold yogurt drink, is often made with black pepper, while in France and Italy peppercorns occasionally turn up in superb cheeses. Pecorino Pepata is a perfect example with its embedded whole black peppercorns that burst across the palate. Pecorino is usually eaten as a table cheese but will occasionally be shaved on top of fresh beans (perfect for summer salads) or lightly sautéed greens. Try it instead of Parmigiano, grating it over a plate of pasta dressed with olive oil and garlic, perhaps with the addition of just a bit more coarsely ground pepper, for an enticing dish. Its flavor is dense and the peppercorn sensation will bring new dynamics to your next meal. This selection should be served with a red wine full-bodied enough to balance the strong peppercorn flavors.
Tetilla
A cheese that can be eaten any time of the day, Tetilla is also suitable for cooking, especially as a stuffing and in recipes calling for a cheese coating as it melts easily with heat. It’s wonderful to melt over plain or raisin bread. Or try it tucked inside a baked potato or a frankfurter. Additionally, it can be served in thin slices, with cured “serrano” jam, chorizo and a glass of wine or dry sherry. Still another suggestion is to serve it on slices of bread with roasted vegetables or artichoke hearts in oil. The creamy, soft and mild-flavored taste of the cheese combines perfectly with Pale Cream, a slightly sweet wine that subtly recovers the delicate flavor of the Tetilla.
