Past Newsletters

Vol 4 No 3

All of our selections come from France this month, and you will taste three very different styles of cow's milk cheeses. St. Marcellin has no rind and is creamy, soft, and rustic. Livarot is also soft, but is more aromatic, and has a washed rind and a beefy, nutty flavor. Raclette, an easier cheese to find in both France and Switzerland, has a brushed rind, is a bit more firm, and has a fruity flavor that intensifies when melted. And you guessed it - the French maintain that their version is far superior to the Swiss Raclette. French Cuisine is acclaimed by many, so perhaps they are right, and the name, Raclette, comes from the French word "racler" meaning "to scrape."

Cheese with a Tradition

Even though the French may have named this cheese, it is said that Raclette originated in the canton of Valais, in Switzerland. Folklore has it that at the end of the 19th century, in the chill of Fall as the wine harvest was coming to an end, grape gatherers sat down to enjoy a loaf of brown bread, some cheese, and a bottle of wine. One of the men stabbed a piece of cheese with a large buck knife, and approached the crackling fire to warm himself while he ate.

As the cheese began to melt and run with a crisp, golden texture, he scraped the melting cheese, and found the taste to be especially intense and flavorful. In fact, it was so extraordinary he invited his friends to take a taste. The others agreed wholeheartedly and shared their boiled potatoes, pickled onions, and gherkins that were scrumptious with the melted cheese. Thereafter, this meal became traditional for Alpine farmers and shepherds.

In the past, Raclette was only enjoyed by the residents and tourists of Switzerland and France, but now this traditional meal, also known as 'Raclette,' is a favorite of mountain resorts the world over. To prepare this delectable, rustic meal, begin by cutting the wheel in half and melting the cut edge in front of a fire. Or as most contemporary entertainers do, use one of the gourmet Raclette tabletop ovens that you can easily find on the Internet. This is one of several good sites ' www.kitchenemporium.com.

It's not just the wonderful flavor that makes Raclette so popular as a melted cheese. The texture and consistency is perfect ' it melts uniformly, without forming a greasy layer, and holds together without becoming completely liquid.

The traditional meal is served by boiling potatoes and arranging thick slices topped with Raclette cheese, on a serving plate that can be used in a broiler. When the cheese is melted, serve with pickles, cornichons, cocktail onions, artichoke hearts, slices of tomatoes, and avocados, Vidalia onion condiments, olive spreads, and the like. We have discovered many other ways to enjoy this cheese. Here's a few you may want to try.

• Substitute French or Sourdough bread for the potatoes.
• Top cooked fish fillets, sliced ham, chicken, or turkey with thin slices of Raclette and broil until melted.
• Place thinly sliced Raclette on top of steamed or sautéed broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, peppers, eggplant, mushrooms, or any other favorite vegetable, and place briefly under the broiler.
• Top thick slices of unpeeled apples and pears with Raclette and broil.
• Add small cubes of Raclette to scrambled eggs or omelets, or thin slices on top of fried or poached eggs.

As The Story Goes'

During the autumn of 1445, a huge bear attacked Prince Louis while he and his entourage were on a hunting trip. Miraculously, two loggers heard their cries and came to the rescue of Prince Louis and his party. While the bear didn't fare so well, Prince Louis broke bread and St. Marcellin cheese with the loggers.

Perhaps it was the traumatic experience, or the exciting story that was no doubt recounted over and over again, but Prince Louis never forgot this remarkable and hard to find cheese ' nor did he ever tire of eating it! When the Prince returned to Paris to be crowned King Louis XI, he brought these cheese makers to Paris, and as a result, St. Marcellin cheese has been enjoyed by all members of French society for more than 500 years.

St. Marcellin is a small, round cheese produced only in the South-Eastern French region of Dauphine. Originally this cheese was made using goat's milk, although now, most of it is made with cow's milk. True to its rustic legend, St. Marcellin is most often found wrapped in chestnut or grape leaves, which turn from fresh green to a dark brown as the cheese ripens. Usually this cheese has a wrinkly, natural rind, often dusted with a coating of white yeast.

St. Marcellin, which has been dipped in wine or eau-de-vie, has a beige crust with blue mold, a soft, beige, creamy interior, and an intensely nutty and fruity flavor. When ripe, it is very runny and irresistible with a slightly yeasty taste. It has been described as "a cheese to worship,' and I'm sure King Louis XI would unconditionally agree!

We hope you have no bears in your woods, and that you thoroughly enjoy experiencing the delicate flavors of this truly noble cheese! It's an impressive addition to any cheeseboard, and is splendid when served as an appetizer or snack accompanied by olives and a good, coarse salami.

Cheese With Military Rank

In Normandy, a little town in the Auge Valley ('Une auge' is French for a cattle trough or manger) gave its name to Livarot cheese. This household cheese was probably the most frequently consumed cheese in all of Normandy during the nineteenth century. Raconteurs daubed this cheese 'the meat of the working masses.' Livarot also acquired the moniker, The Colonel, because when the cheese is taken out of the mould for maturing, it needs support to avoid collapsing. Originally it was bound with five strips of Sedge (an aquatic plant, suggesting the stripes of a Colonel in the French Army. You may also find it bound by five bands of rush leaves or willow wood.

Already known in the middle of the 12th century, Livarot is one of the oldest cheeses in Normandy. Both Livarot and Pont-l'Evêque, are descendants of Angelot, the cheese quoted in the Romance of the Rose written by Guillaume de Lorris in 1260. And Thomas Corneille included a description of Livarot in his Dictionnaire Universel Géographique et Historique published in 1708.

Writings dating from the 15th century describe the meadows of the Auge Valley and the outstanding wealth of its flora - one of the major factors in distinguishing this cheese. The Auge Valley owes its unique flora to the humidity of its clay soil and to the prevailing seaside climate. These two factors produce a soft and tender grass. The rolling countryside is defined by countless valleys, both large and small, and is traversed by three large rivers and innumerable little streams, called "douets.' This green plateau, dotted with apple orchards and cattle grazing peacefully in the fields, is rightly known as the cradle of cheese production in Normandy!

Before World War II, this cheese was thicker than the one we know today ' it took twelve liters of cow skimmed milk to make one Livarot cheese (the farmers used the cream to make butter). Today, Livarot is fatter, containing on average 40% fats. Made with cow's milk, Livarot belongs to the soft-ripened, washed-rind cheese category.

It is always cylindrical in shape and comes in four sizes of varying weight. In the course of its maturing, Livarot is colored reddish-orange with the natural taint of rocou, a South American plant. This makes the rind smooth and brilliant. Depending on the length of maturing, the pâte is golden yellow with a taste that is perfumed and slightly piquant. Fans of this cheese, and we are sure you will become one, relish its heady aroma and its full rich flavor.

Until the 60's, this cheese was just made for the local people. Livarot cheese, like Normandy's other old favorite, Pont l'Evêque, cannot be reproduced anywhere else in the world. In April 1970, the producers of Livarot formed an association and applied for name-controlled AOC status, which was granted in December 1975.

Travel Notes

If you visit the Auge Valley, you will see many graceful villages with the black and white half-timbered houses that are characteristic of the architecture of Normandy. The Pays d'Auge also boasts historic châteaux, country manors, abbeys, and museums to explore. Don't miss the recently restored castle of Falaise, the birthplace of William the Conqueror in 1027!

Tasting Notes

Raclette: Raclette is an artisanal cheese that is firm and pressed with a natural rind. The paste is usually smooth but may have small holes. It has a slightly spicy, but not overpowering, flavor that intensifies when melted. Its fat content is 45%, and maturation takes at least two months.

St. Marcellin: This cheese from the Dauphine Region, comes in many stages of affinage (maturity) - ranging from the fresh to the very ripe. As it matures, the taste becomes more pronounced, but remains mild, nutty, and slightly acidic and salty. Its flavor pairs perfectly with any Rhone red wine. We think it's at its best when the paste clings to the knife.

Livarot: Very similar to Pont l'Evêque and from a nearby town in the Normandy region, this cheese has a bright orange rind and is round in shape. Livarot is a robust tasting cheese with a prominent, guileless flavor.