Vol. 4 No. 12

A Point We Pride Ourselves On…

Variety: it is the spice of life and a hallmark of all our monthly clubs here at the International Cheese of the Month Club. In all of our clubs, from our Wine of the Month to Chocolate of the Month to Fresh-cut Flower of the Month Clubs, we make it a point to offer diversity within the products contained in both our individual monthly shipments as well as across shipments throughout the year. We consistently strive to provide our members with the best indulgencies that the world has to offer. The cheeses that have been included in the package you have just received may not exemplify the broadest variety in the national or geographical sense, but nonetheless, they do demonstrate differences at the most basic level of cheese production: the milk used to produce it. Our three featured cheeses are each made from the milk of different livestock; Roncal, made from unpasteurized sheep's milk, Bourdin Goat Log, made obviously from goat's milk, and Port L'Eveque, produced from cow's milk. We hope you enjoy these cheeses and the differences in flavor, texture, and style that these delicious selections provide.

A recipe that isn't read, only heard
Roncal

This month, we wanted to share with you, in detail, an actual recipe for cheesemaking in the time-honored Spanish tradition. Unfortunately, after searching and searching we came up empty handed in our efforts to get the recipe for our first feature this month, Roncal cheese. Is it because this cheese is not popular enough to have such information readily available? No. Quite the contrary, Roncal cheese is exceptionally popular, not only in Spain, its country of origin, but in many regions in the world. Is it because this cheese hasn't been around very long and therefore neither has the recipe? Absolutely not! In fact, the history of this cheese goes back many centuries. So why then can't we get our hands on the recipe? As it turns out, that information is extremely privileged, and since we don't have the proper bloodline, we will likely never know. The traditional hand crafted methods of making Roncal cheese are jealously guarded family secrets, unwritten and handed down only through verbal communication throughout the ages from one generation to the next. Luckily, one needn't know exactly how it's made to indulge in the delight of its flavor.

And while we might not know the recipe, we can tell you some other interesting facts about this cheese. It comes from a region in the very north of Spain, in the province of Navarre, along the Spain-France border. The name of the area where it is produced, unsurprisingly, is the Roncal Valley; a rural farming community whose inhabitants, according to local laws, are all equally entitled to use any of the pastures of this valley for any livestock of their choice. It is certainly transparent enough from reading such laws that the Roncalese are shepherds by tradition, a practice that dates back to the middle ages, and stems from the decision by King Sancho García in 882 A.D. to bestow grazing rights to the inhabitants of the valley in thanks for the courage shown in the battle against the Saracens.

With such a long history of shepherding in this region, it is no surprise that a governing body has long been responsible for managing elements of the practice. The Valley's Municipal government mandates that sheepherders follow strict time-tables for seasonal grazing. Roncalese farmers move their flocks of Rasa-Aragonesa and Lacha sheep each year, from the winter pastures in La Bardenas Reales in southern Navarre, to the summer pastures higher up in the valley. In this way, milk can be obtained nearly year round, and cheese production can continue unabated as it has for centuries.

From the Geographical Heartland of Great Cheeses
Bourdin Goat Log

The country of France yields nearly 600 different varieties of cheese, more than any other country has to offer, and each one as distinctive as a fingerprint. So it was with thoughtful consideration that we chose the fresh goat cheese log.

In the cheese lover's paradise of France, the professional cheesemaker learns his craft as painstakingly as an attorney at law. It is with these traditional artisan techniques that the fresh goat cheese has been crafted, making it one much prized by connoisseurs.

Taking inspiration from the walnut covered German Brie and the wine soaked Ubriaco, the goat log is also a perfect base to add your own touch of flavor to. Adding fresh herbs or spices like crushed black peppercorns, a little rosemary and thyme, or marinating it in oil can make this tasty cheese absolutely delectable. You can even lightly dust it with paprika. Also known as Chevres, this goat cheese makes an excellent dessert served with bread and fruit, and commonly appears on European dinner tables as a typical after dinner treat. The French wines recommended to drink with this unique cheese are modest white wines or rosés.

Medieval Times and Traditions are Kept Alive at Pont LEveque
Pont LEveque

Talk about history! Pont LEveque has a story that dates back to the thirteenth century. Surviving texts of the time specifically mention Angelot, the cheese from which Pont LEveque has been developed. In 1263 A.D., Guillaume de Lorris proclaimed in his book Roman de la Rose that a good table wine always finishes with a dessert of dangelot . Since this time, Angelot developed, in the capable hands of Norman farmers, into a cheese that is now known as Pont LEveque.

This cheese takes its name from the title of a bridge in a small seaside port town between neighboring Norman towns of Liseux and Deauville in Northwestern France. During the 1600's, cheeses were sent from this port all over France, where admirers enjoyed its rich, creamy flavor and supple consistency. For over 800 years now, people have enjoyed some variation of this cheese!

The Port LEveque rind is edible, and when consumed along with the cheese, contributes to the full-bodied flavor that many enjoy. A red wine of similar body partners nicely with this cheese and in particular, complements and balances the full flavor imparted by the rind. The bouquet of this cheese, which some claim is reminiscent of the countryside of Normandy, can have a rather strong character to it, and may not be for the tame of heart. We suggest a nice flowery rosé for those who wish to tone down the influence of the bouquet. In whatever manner you choose to work this delicacy into your diet, we hope you enjoy this, one of the world's ancient and long-treasured cheeses.

Cheese Tips

• Cheese is always more flavorful when served at room temperature. Let it stand for a good half hour before serving.
• Bring only what you need to room temperature, leaving the rest wrapped tightly in the refrigerator.
• Store cheese at temperatures between 35° F and 40° F keeping it in the original wrapping or container, transparent wrap, waxed paper, plastic bags, foil, or tightly covered containers.
• Cheese has a tendency to continue to ripen, no matter how carefully you store it.
• Most hard cheeses will keep for several months; softer cheeses will keep from one to three weeks after opening if you store them in an airtight container.
• Because it has more exposed surface areas, shredded cheese is more prone to mold .Try to use it within a few days.
• Highly fragrant cheeses should be stored in airtight containers.
• When cheese molds, remove about 1/2" from the moldy sides then use what remains. Serve as quickly as possible, preferably within a week.

Cheese Freeze

Almost all hard cheeses can be frozen, although, there will be some change in texture. Follow these freezing tips:

• Freeze in comparatively small pieces (1/2 lb. or less).
• Wrap so the cheese is airtight.
• Date the cheese when you freeze it. Most hard cheeses can be frozen for up to 8 weeks.
• When ready to use, thaw in the refrigerator and serve within a few days.

Tasting Notes

Roncal

Roncal is not only a name-protected cheese, but was the first cheese to be granted that honor by Spain in 1981. It's made in the Roncal valley, in the Navarre region, where some of the registered sheep herds which produce the milk date back to the thirteenth century! It has a rich olive-like flavor that has been savored in Spain for almost 300 years, but may be difficult to find in other countries. It is traditionally enjoyed with Navarra red wines of the same region.

Bourdin Goat Log
This style of fresh goat log is a staple in French markets, and for very good reason. It has a soft and moist texture and a gentle but creamy flavor. While this wonderfully versatile cheese may be eaten by itself, it is the perfect backdrop to let your culinary imagination run wild! It can be paired with fruit, honey or preserves and is perfect to add depth into any salad. A traditional European way of serving fresh goat cheese is alongside olives and/or olive oils.

Pont LEveque

Pont LEveque is made on the bridge that gave it its name in Normandy, France. It is similar to a camembert, but the rind is washed before aging with a brine solution. This gives the square-shaped cheese a much more pronounced flavor and a rustic, farmyard aroma. It is particularly well suited to full bodied red wines.