Vol 3 No 9
With Labor Day now passed, we can look forward to fall colors, cooler nights, and the rich abundance of autumn fruits and vegetables. Our cheeses this month complement the changing seasons beautifully… perfect for snacking or picnicking in the last days of summer. Both the Bleu d’Auvergne and the Explorateur also make delicious desserts when served with fresh fruits.
All three of our selected cheeses are made from recipes dating back to the middle of the last century, making them relatively “new” in the cheesemaking world. Despite their apparent youth, all three of these cheeses are considered to be full flavored classics, and they are made following very traditional techniques.
Lancashire often appears as a staple part of a “Ploughman’s Lunch” – a traditional meal served in pubs across Great Britain. Originating as a filling meal carried to the fields by farmers (hence the name), it’s a combination of crusty bread and rich cheeses, accompanied by chutney, fruit and raw vegetables. The three cheeses we’ve selected this month work perfectly on such a platter (the ploughman of two centuries ago wished he could eat this well!). The crumbly and buttery Lancashire, rich and creamy Explorateur, and the savory Bleu d’Auvergne cover a wonderful range of the flavors and textures of cheese. Serve them with bread and slices of fresh apples and pears to celebrate the beginning of the shift from summer to fall.
Lancashire
You’ll Never Have Enough Of This Crumbly Buttery Classic!
The county of Lancashire, located in the northwest of England (home county of The Beatles) is a combination of rough and rugged countryside and industrial towns, and was the home of the industrial revolution in England. Lancashire is made in the area located a little north of Cheshire (home and namesake to another of Britain’s finest cheeses). It’s traditionally produced using the curd from two or three days’ worth of milkings, which helps to give the creamy richness great depth. A white colored cow’s milk cheese; it is most appreciated for its fantastic crumbly texture and buttery taste.
Lancashire is one of the lesser known cheeses of England… often overshadowed by Cheddar and Cheshire, it’s more famous counterparts. Its combination of delicate texture and rich, creamy flavor place it into a distinct category of its own. I’m told the flavor develops into a tangier note as it ages, but I just can’t keep it that long to find out! In Great Britain it is the classic “toasting” cheese in the British sense of the word (crumbled or spread onto bread and heated under the broiler, not as in giving a toast with a drink…)
Top a slice of Farm Bread with a layer of apple chutney, crumble on some of the Lancashire, and set it under the broiler 'til the cheese is bubbling hot and lightly browned. Sometimes known as “Welsh Rarebit” or “Welsh Rabbit”, this is one of the basic and classic ways to serve Lancashire.
Variations include heating ale or milk gently in a pan, and crumbling in the Lancashire. When it’s all melted together (you’ll want to go nice and slow, or the cheese will become stringy), spread the mixture over toast and then broil until golden brown. Experiment with adding your favorite flavors or seasonings, such as chives or mustard.
Lancashire, like most British cheeses, is the perfect match to be served along with a good beer or ale, but is equally delicious when paired with a Chardonnay or Muscadet. If you are lucky enough to be getting our Microbrewed Beer of the Month club, you can enjoy it with the Charleston Pale and Brown Ales made by Carolina Beer Company, or Turbo Dog, a Porter made by Abita B.C., but my favorite is the Amber Lager, Ybor Gold, made by Ybor City B.C.
Explorateur
Triple Crème Cheeses Should Only Be Eaten With Good Friends.
This unbelievable cheese, made in the Isle de France region, is the most decadent and indulgent cheese experience you will ever encounter. Explorateur was created by the French in honor of the first US satellite, Explorer One. Such acute differences in cultural expressions always amaze me! In America, surely we named something after Explorer One. Please let us know if you aware of anything that commemorates this extraordinary milestone here in our country! On the other hand, the French who simply appreciated our efforts, created a magnificent cheese in honor of Explorer One, a high point of human achievement.
A full pound of Explorateur will easily serve 12 people. Triple Crème cheeses are the creamiest, and most luxurious of all French Cheeses. They are made by adding extra crème to the fresh curd used to make soft-ripened cheeses. By law these cheeses must contain at least 75% butterfat… not a good thing if you are watching your weight, but enjoy anyway. A little cheese won’t sabotage your resolve. Triple crème cheeses are cured for about three weeks before they develop a very thin, downy rind. Among the most famous are French Saint Andre, Explorateur, Brilliat Savarin, and Pierre Robert.
When ripe, Explorateur’s ivory interior has a delicate aroma, and a salty, mushroomy tang… a delicately piquant flavor that reminds me of buttery baked hazelnuts. Explorateur is usually served as an appetizer with Champagne, Bordeaux, or dry, fruity white wines, and crusty French bread. Often it’s served at the end of a meal as a dessert accompanied by a medley of ripe, fresh fruit.
Explorer 1
Explorer was launched on JAN 31’ 58 following the Soviet Sputnik, and at that time it was embarrassing for Americans to “catch up” to the Russians. The U.S. Army launched Explorer One using a rocket that had been developed to test guided missile components.
Every 115 minutes, Explorer orbited Earth, 220 miles above the surface at its closest point, and 1580 miles at its farthest. It measured cosmic rays and micrometeorites, transmitting this data until February 28, 1958.
Explorer One proved that the Earth is surrounded by intense bands of radiation, now called the Van Allen radiation belts. You can see Explorer One at the Smithsonian Institution, National Air and Space Museum, Milestones of Flight Gallery.
Bleu d'Auvergne
Don’t Ever Call It Roquefort!
Blue d’Auvergne is relatively new in the world of cheese… it first appeared in the markets in the middle of the last century. The story goes that an Auvergnat farmer sprinkled mold from rye bread on his milk curd and then pierced the curd with a needle. This allowed the air through and the curd developed blue veins. Although this cheese could be mistaken for Roquefort in looks, it has its own distinct flavor.
My friend, Claudette, was studying in Auvergne and attended a dinner at a local château. As the cheese tray was brought to her, she saw a blue cheese and asked for "du Roquefort." An audible gasp sprang from her fellow diners, and one haughtily commented: "That's not Roquefort, Madame, it's a Bleu d'Auvergne!" Needless to say, that's a mistake she hasn't made since, and now you won't either.
Compared to Roquefort, its super-intense and crumbly relative, Bleu d'Auvergne has a creamier texture and a more subtle, rustic flavor. For a special treat, serve it with Sauterne and toasted nuts, or with a full bodied red wine.
Bleu d'Auvergne is made using century old techniques and an uncompromising attention to quality. The result… a blue that's ideal for both snacking and cooking. As with the other great blues, you can contrast the heady flavor of Bleu d'Auvergne with the sweetness of fresh fruit, and/or a dessert wine. Bleu d'Auvergne is great crumbled on a tossed salad or add it directly to your freshly made vinaigrette to mellow the acidity. Try a small piece on a slice of apple for a beautiful, healthy snack!
What a Cow Eats Really Does Flavor Their Milk
The Auvergne lies in the heart of the Massif Central, a mountain range with a chain of long extinct volcanoes, or "Puy." The Allier is rich farm country with gentle hills and huge forests. The landscape of the Puy-de-Dome and Cantal highlands changes into sweeping glacier valleys, lakes, waterfalls, and a wide plateau. There you will find unspoiled medieval towns and mountain villages. And in the wilds of the Labradors, remote stone and slate roofed "Kasseris" or "actives," the summer farmhouses on the plateau. As you might expect, the people here are warm and friendly.
From spring until late autumn, there are country fetes which are held to celebrate the harvest and the movement of the herds to their mountain pastures. And you will find numerous markets where you can trawl through piles of bric-a-brac.
The terrain near Auvergne is craggy and desolate, and actually better suited to raising sheep than cows. Even so, the region manages to produce enough cows milk to eek out its small annual production of Bleu d'Auvergne. The cheese boasts an abundance of blue veins and a smooth, yet intense flavor that blue lovers covet!
This AOC cheese (granted an AOC certification in 1975) tastes of clover, wildflowers, and wild onions. These are the main plants the cows feast on, and what a cow eats really does flavor the milk they produce, and thus the cheese made from that milk. It’s kind of like adding chocolate syrup to make a milk shake, but this way it’s added before the cow is milked.
Why are some cheeses designated as AOC? The Appellation d'Origine Controlee or AOC applies to wines, eaux-de-vie, dairy and farmhouse products. It guarantees that a product of quality has been produced within a specified region following established methods of production. The AOC is regulated by laws, the first of which was the Law for the Protection of the Place of Origin of May 6th, 1919.
Triple Crème Chicken Kiev
4 chicken breast halves
1/2 pound Explorateur or St. André cheese, very cold
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or chives
1 tablespoon finely-chopped garlic
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
Flour
1 egg, beaten
About 1 cup panko (prepared crumb coating available in Japanese markets)
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1 bunch watercress
Skin and bone chicken breasts, removing all fat, sinew and tendons. With palm of your hand flatten each breast half on work surface. Holding a very sharp knife parallel to work surface, slit each half breast in two. Put fillets between two long sheets of wax paper, cut side up. Pound them with flat side of a heavy cleaver until almost transparent. Peel off top paper.
Cut cheese into 8 even sticks. Place 1 stick, slightly diagonal on each piece of chicken. Sprinkle with 1/8 each of herbs and garlic; season with salt and pepper. Carefully roll up each piece of chicken, completely enclosing cheese. Seal ends by tucking them in or pressing them together. Dust each roll lightly with flour, brush with egg and roll in panko. Fry in oil heated to 350/F until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain on paper towels. To serve, arrange on a hot napkin on a warmed serving plate and garnish with crisp watercress.
Lancashire Cheese and Apple Cake
Butter - 15 g (½ oz)
Self raising flour - 200 g (7 oz)
Baking powder - 1 heaped tsp
Sugar - 75 g (3 oz)
Dessert apples - 725 g (1 lb 10 oz), cored and peeled
Seedless raisins - 125 g (4½ oz)
Grated nutmeg - 1 tsp
Eggs - 2, beaten
Sunflower oil - 110 ml (4 fl oz)
Lancashire cheese - 150 g (5 oz), crumbled
Generously butter a loose-based 9 inch cake tin. Pre-heat oven to 325 F. Sift flour and baking powder together. Add sugar, apples, raisins and nutmeg. Beat eggs into oil and stir into the mix. Spoon half into the tin. Add cheese and top with the remaining apple mix. Bake for 1 hour until golden. Cool in the tin for 30 minutes. Dust with icing sugar for decoration.
