Past Newsletters
Vol 3 No 8
Tastes From the Old Country
What better way to celebrate summer than by feasting on exotic cheeses from fabulous Italy? August in Europe is a whole different experience than it is in the United States. Sure, many of us here in the USA take our vacations from work this month, but, believe me, in Europe vacation is truly a summer break – the place closes down pretty much for the whole month! And anyone who has gone to Italy in August will tell you the natives really get into the holiday spirit of things. The beaches are jammed, the crowds festive, the cities deserted, and schedules fall by the wayside. A good time is enjoyed by all for the entire month. After all, there’s a reason they call it La Dolce Vita!
Of course, in Italy good times and meal times are certainly synonymous! You can be sure the Italians are going to spend a good deal of their free time sampling the excellent local vino and matching up delectable, flavorful cheeses to go with the wine!
So we figured we’d join in the summer celebration by offering a selection of excellent, tasty, tangy Italian cheeses. We may not get the whole month off from work, but that’s no reason to forego the glorious gastronomic treats that the Italians enjoy. This month, there are three great cheeses on our menu: Parmigiano Reggiano, Montasio, and Pecorino Toscano.
Sinatra and Pavarotti’s Favorite
Our friends at Zingerman’s, one of the world’s greatest delis, swear they discovered this superb Parmigiano Reggiano cheese at a secret dairy on the top of a hill outside of Modena during a recent food tour. Thanks to them, we’re able to make it available to our own customers. They first sampled wedges of this fine cheese during a meal in Modena, and then went on to discover who manufactured it and how to import it. We’re happy they did, because this cheese is quite a find. One taste and we think you’ll agree that it shouldn’t be kept a secret any longer!
The cheese is truly astounding, tasty and versatile, and the Zingermans' buyers say that it's so good that it wound up being both Sinatra’s and Pavarotti's favorite. We can’t guarantee you’ll sing like those grand masters, but we bet if you slice it into wedges or chunks and make it the centerpiece of a summertime party, you’ll have a bona fide hit on your hands.
A lot of folks figure Parmigiano is meant to be simply grated into soup, sprinkled onto paste or polenta, or topped onto tender veal or chicken. These are all certainly acceptable options, and the cheese will help heighten the flavors of minestrone or onion soup. However, this aromatic, delectable cheese can easily stand by itself and be consumed solo. Have it for a snack during the day with some fresh Italian bread. Serve it with Italian red wines like Spanna, Barolo, or Gattinara. Have it with a bit of fruit to finish off a fine meal in place of a rich dessert. This is a cheese that is meant to be eaten and savored, not merely ground up and grated.
A Unique Cheese Experience
Our colleagues at Zingerman’s tell us that not all the wheels that boast the world-famous Parmigiano Reggiano name are created equal. In fact, there are enormous differences from one Parmigiano Reggiano to the next. This special rendition that you will be, or are already, tasting is made by a dairy nearly 2,000 feet up in the hills outside of Modena. The high altitude provides the right conditions for plenty of diversity in the grasses, herbs and flowers… a first class banquet for this diary’s herd of cows. And that means their milk is full of complex and unique flavors.
Another discriminating difference… their cheese is aged for a minimum of two years, which is 33 percent longer than the Consorzio minimum! Most importantly, the finished cheese has a really rich, wonderfully complex flavor, with a lovely, long finish. And, it has none of that bitterness or mouth burn that often marks the final flavor of others. This is the best Parmigiano Reggiano you are ever going to taste!
So what’s the Consorzio… didn’t Brando play one in the movies?
No, no, no the Consorzio is not what you think. It’s all about the cheese. The Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano is an association of 482 cheese producers. The Consorzio was founded in 1934, and became a force in Italian cheesemaking after the agricultural reform of 1954. Each cheese maker is a member of the Consorzio, so in essence, the Consorzio works for the cheese makers. But it’s the Consorzio that establishes the high standards of operation, and runs ongoing tests to make sure those standards are being met. You can see the Consorzio's seal of approval on every wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. Any wheel that wears the seal has earned it.
Montasio is not just a mountain!
Montasio cheese derives its name from the Montasio mountain range in the Friuli region of Italy. It was first made during the 13the century at a monastery in the Giulia Alps. Today, Montasio is widely produced throughout the Friuli region, and it is made in compliance with precise requirements. The production area is limited to Friuli (which is north of Venice); East Veneto in the provinces of Belluno and Treviso; and to some areas of Padua and Venice provinces. But the original characteristics of this fine product have been preserved for all to enjoy.
The branding of the cheese with the trademark of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Montasio (Consortium for the Protection of Montasio Cheese) guarantees its origin, as well as compliance with all the characteristics stipulated in the production regulations. Only fresh cow’s milk is used, and the progressive transformation process is closely monitored.
Montasio is enjoyed by all ages because it is so easy to digest, and therefore, is especially suitable for children and elderly people. And it’s always delicious whatever its age. Montasio is great when it’s still fresh, after maturing for only two months. It’s scrumptious when it has matured from five to ten months, and it’s everyone’s favorite in its full maturity of ten or more months.
When the cheese is fresh, the taste is mild and delicate, and the color is white. The texture is compact with an even oscillation, and the rind is smooth and flexible. As the cheese matures, it becomes grainy and crumbly and the rind dries and darkens. Its flavor becomes mellow and fruity with and full flavored finish, and its color slowly turns to a pale, straw-yellow. Typically, you will find this cheese served as an eating cheese with crusty bread. You can also shred it on pasta dishes, and serve it in omelets, sauces, and fondue. Try it with Pinot Grigio.
Pecorino Toscano
Until recently the name Pecorino Toscano was given to any cheese made in Tuscany from ewes' milk (Pecorino is the Italian word for sheep), although sometimes it was mixed with cows' or goats' milk. The name is now reserved for pure ewes' milk cheeses made between September and June. Pecorino Toscano cheeses are smaller and milder than the other Pecorinos (Romano and Sardo), and may be sold soft and fresh (yellow rind) or firm and ripened for a few months (brown-red rind).
This is no ordinary cheese, Pecorino of Tuscany is quite famous around the cheese world, since just about every village in Tuscany makes their own unique rendition, but they are all based on the same recipe! You may think that some would be better than others, but the Tuscans love their Pecorino, and they claim that each one is equally delicious… just a little different.
Savory and fragrant grasses which vary from farm to farm help to give each version its unique taste as does each farmers interpretation of the basic recipe. Milking always takes place once a day and the cheeses are made using unpasteurized milk. They are ripened from forty days to more than six months in a damp environment of about 10ºC.
Most Pecorinos are oily cheeses (about 45% fat) because ewes' milk contains very high amounts of butterfat… one of the reasons this cheese is so scrumptious. So when your Pecorino comes to room temperature, don’t be surprised if you see beads of oil on the cheese. "Butterfat Tears" weep naturally from this cheese, indicating that it’s the perfect temperature for eating.
Toscano can be used as an ingredient in cooking, and is also an excellent addition to any cheese board. A light red wine, such as a Gamay, would be an ideal accompaniment. Although it’s usually eaten as a table cheese, try it shaved on top of fresh beans (perfect for summer salads) or lightly sautéed greens. Use it instead of Parmigiano on your next bowl of pasta. Its flavor is dense and nutty with a wonderful rustic finish.
Cheese Notes: Sheep's milk cheeses break down into smaller molecules in the body that are much easier to digest. Many lactose intolerant people find that they can enjoy sheep's milk cheeses without repercussions to their health.
Pecorino Toscano was granted its DOC protection on 17th May 1986. It can be made in Tuscany and the neighboring communes of Umbria and Latium.
In Tuscany, Pecorino is never referred to as formaggio, but rather, cacio, which was adapted from the Latin word caseus. The German kase and the English cheese were also derived from this ancient word.
Simple But Elegant Roasted Pears
8 ounces Pecorino Toscano cheese
4 large pears, not quite ripe
1 cup Chianti or other dry red wine
½ cup sugar
¼ cup chestnut or orange blossom honey
Trim the bottoms of the pears so they'll stand up and arrange them in a small baking dish. Pour the wine and the sugar into the pan around the pears. Bake at 400 degrees until soft, about 40 minutes. Remove and allow to cool. Strain the liquid in the bottom of the pan and set aside. Place each pear in the center of a dessert plate. Drizzle with the honey and spoon the wine sauce around the base of each. Using a peeler, shave pieces of Pecorino over the pears and serve.
Pears With Vanilla Cream and Montasio Mousse
Mousse
Medium sized Montasio
3 cooked pears (10.5oz.)
12oz. of whipped cream
half a lemon
Sauce
17oz. of custard
10.5oz. of the pears' cooking liquid
Cook 6 pears in a liter of water with 17oz. of sugar and 2 cloves. Remove from the heat while still firm and leave to cool in their own liquid. For the mousse: Add the Montasio and the pears with a drop of lemon juice to your blender. Once blended, slowly add the whipped cream and then put into the fridge to cool. Complete the sauce by mixing the custard and the cooking liquid.
