Vol. 3 No. 6
Western and Northern Europe meet this month, colliding in a fantastic fusion of flavor as we deliver to you cheese from France and the more northerly countries of Switzerland and Denmark. Each of these cheeses - French Ossau Iraty, Swiss Aged Appenzellar and Danish Tilsit - combine singular sophisticated tastes that, when combined, will make a lasting and memorable cheese dining experience. And where best to have that dining experience but at a park or a beach, on a soft blanket with a cool summer breeze? As we usher in the summer months and break out those lawn chairs and picnic baskets - don't forget the cheese. It makes a fun summer festivity perfect.
Ossau-Iraty
Ossau-Iraty, probably the least known 'Appelation d'Origine Controlee' (A.O.C) cheese, is a marriage of the fruits of labor from two picturesque regions in France. Sometimes also called French Mountain, this traditional cheese from the Western Pyrénées unites Ossau, in the valley of the Bearn, and Iraty in the beech forests of the Pays Basque. Where these two provinces meet, the mountain pastures are a prosperous common ground indeed as you'll soon find out!
Very highly regulated by the AOC designation to maintain authenticity, this French Pyrenees raw sheep's milk cheese is a favorite of connoisseurs the world over. Made in small mountain chalets from the milk of black-faced Manech sheep, its firm, beautiful ivory color, slightly acidic taste, and hints of hazelnut will bring immediate sophistication to any cheese board.
Danish Tilsit
A rare luxury in the United States, Tilsit is a surface-ripened cheese originally made in the mid-19th Century by Dutch settlers in East Prussia near the town of Tilsit. Trying to recreate their own beloved Gouda, the cheese became infected with molds, yeasts, and bacteria while being aged in a damp cellar. Thus Tilsit, also known as Tilsit Havarti, was born. Although similar, this Danish cheese has a fuller and more intense flavor than the regular Havarti. Having a brownish-orange washed rind and made of partially skimmed milk, this exquisite cheese has a rich yellow color with a springy elastic semi-firm texture, making it ideal for slicing. Danish Tilsit also has a piquant flavor lending it nicely as a wonderful table cheese. Extremely versatile, Tilsit can be cubed in salads, melted in sauces, on potatoes, flans, or on burgers. And, it has the added value of marrying perfectly with a clean, crisp Danish pilsner!
Extra Aged Appenzellar
Crafted in the tiny Appenzell region of Switzerland, this rare cheese is a full-fat, semi-hard cheese, selected and matured to the highest standards. Only supplied to consumers at the height of its maturity, Extra Aged Appenzeller is a superior natural product, over whose quality no compromise is made. After exacting analysis, cheesemaking experts carefully select the choice picks of the Appenzeller cheeses. Only select cheeses that fulfill a rigid set of standards are considered suitable to be matured for long periods and have the opportunity to become Appenzeller Extras. The same experts that select which products will be aged to full maturity also oversee the aging process over a 6-month period in climate controlled cheese cellars maintained to exactly 15 degrees Celsius.
Naturally, Appenzeller Extra is treated with herbal brine, the recipe for which remains a well-kept secret, known only to a few initiates. Similar to the fact that not all wine vintages are suitable for extended aging, not every Appenzeller cheese can be matured long enough to mature into an Extra Appenzeller. We're so pleased to bring you this rare delicacy, sought out by cheese connoisseurs around the globe for its unique, full-impact taste.
Tasting Notes
Danish Tilsit: Immediately note this cheese's lovely buttery yellow color and tiny elliptical holes. We found the consistency springy and elastic, yet rather moist and creamy. Look for a mild flavor that's delicate with spicy undertones. Tilsit is similar to, but has a much fuller flavor, than Havarti - think of it as Jhavarti with a flavor boost and aroma to match!
Ossau Iraty: It's no mistake that we've featured this cheese this month. Ossau Iraty is produced between June and September when sheep herds move to high mountain meadows. This tends to give the cheese a much more robust flavor. Look for a rich and enticing nutty character with hints of olive and fruit.
Extra Aged Appenzeller: Aged for 6 months, you'll find this cheese on the slightly spicy side. It's a pressed, cooked-curd cheese with occasional pea-size holes. We found it to have a pleasing, smooth texture. Its real charm though, is its fruity tanginess, making it a perfect complement to delicious summer fruits or to be served as a dessert cheese.
Time Honored Cheese Traditions from the Ossau-Iraty Region
Pastoral activities are very traditional and ancient in France's Western Pyrénées. Towards the end of May, one can see shepherds and their sheep heading up mountain pastures for the summer, only to return in the fall. At that time, each shepherd begins to prepare his cheese, which will later be matured in a cellar. Each cheese is generally named after the valley or village where it was crafted. One such cheese is Ossau-Iraty. This soft cheese from the Basque coast, a gastronomic treat in its own right, is eagerly anticipated each year and often traditionally served with Itxassou quince or black cherry preserves.
For ages, from the Basque Country to Béarn's mountains, shepherds have been making this fantastic sheep's milk cheese. The "Ossau-Iraty-Pyrenees Cheese Road" starts in Saint Jean and stops at Aubisque's pass. It runs over two hundred kilometers through Béarn and the Basque Country, through mountains, forests, and the Ossau, Aspe and Barétous valleys. On it, you'll find breathtaking landscapes, protected fauna and flora, ancient time vestiges, villages and forts, and of course flocks and shepherds. An old world steeped in tradition. And Ossau-Iraty is truly a cheese that reflects this heritage.
A Jug of Wine, A Loaf of Bread, And Thou …
Picnicking with Wine and Cheese
Summer is a great time of year to get out and enjoy the outdoors. And what better way to partake in the beauty of nature and friendship than to do it sitting on a picnic blanket nibbling on a crusty loaf of bread and a hearty, flavorful cheese. What an unforgettable picnic dining experience and such a glorious meal! So simple, yet delicious.
What can make a picnic memorable? No doubt the simple combination of cheese, wine, and bread ("the holy trinity of food"), enjoyed by mankind for thousands of years. One of the key players, yeast, an ingredient found in all three acts, is a catalyst that can bring forth delicious extraordinary flavors when wine and cheese are combined.
Which brings us to our next question when preparing for the perfect picnic: How does one find that superb pairing of wine and cheese? Authorities would tell you that the high acidity cheeses need high acidity wines; the mild cheese selections need wines with muted flavors; goat cheese and sheep's milk cheeses pair well with white wines and cheeses produced from cow's complement red wines nicely. But we all know that sometimes such generalities can be useless, having encountered so many exceptions to this "conventional wisdom."
Cheese happens to be a living, breathing organism. Any one particular cheese can give a range of results depending on its condition and age. As an example, St. Marcellin, a cow's milk cheese from France, is slightly tart in its youth, calling for a crisp, acidic wine. As it ages, its butterfat content goes up and its acidity reduces, making it match with fruity, buttery whites or slightly tannic reds. Because of these various factors, the only way to be sure if a wine and cheese pair well is to take a completely unauthoritative approach … check it out for yourself!
Just as important as the pairings of wine and cheese is the choice of the cheese itself. The cheeses selected for a picnic should be farmhouse style, artisanal cheeses. Don't skimp on quality and don't hoard your entire cheese shipment to yourself! Avoid commercial, factory made versions. The wines you choose, with a few exceptions, should be simple, approachable, and ready to drink - no need for expensive French Bordeaux or Burgundy.
The fresh air and casual atmosphere of dining al fresco work their magic on fine food and wine. Picnicking with wine and cheese can be as simple as throwing a blanket down at the beach and pulling the wine and cheese out of the cooler, or as elaborate as a five course feast at a favorite public garden. With the perfect wine and cheese, just know it will be a gourmet delight. You can count on it.
Recipes
Sheep's Cheeses with Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Toasted Almonds
Recipe courtesy of The Cheese Course, Janet Fletcher (Chronicle Books 2000)
Oven-Dried Tomatoes:
6 meaty plum tomatoes (about 1 lb.) cut in half lengthwise
1 tbs extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
1 tsp. dried herbs de Provence
Toasted Almonds:
1 c. whole, unblanched almonds (about 5 ounces)
2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. sea salt or kosher salt
1 to 1 1/4 lbs. sheep's-milk cheeses of two or three different varieties, such as Ossau-Iraty, Pecorino Toscano, Cabrales, Manchego, Vermont Shepherd's Cheese, Old Chatham Pepper Pyramid, or Brin d'Amour
To prepare the tomatoes: Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Place the tomatoes in a non-aluminum baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and herbs to taste, crumbling the herbs between your fingers to release fragrance. Bake until tomatoes are very soft, wrinkled, and shrunken, though still moist - about 8 hours. Set aside to cool.
To prepare the almonds: Put the oven temperature up to 325 degrees F. Over high heat, bring a small saucepan of water to boil. Add almonds, blanch for 1 minute, then drain. Quickly transfer the nuts to a kitchen towel and wrap the towel around them. Vigorously rub nuts in the towel to loosen their skins. Remove skins that don't come loose (they should peel off easily by hand). Transfer the nuts to a baking sheet. Rub with olive oil and season with salt to taste. Bake to a golden brown and fragrant, about 30 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to cool down.
To serve: Present the cheeses on a cheese board and pass the tomatoes and almonds separately. Alternatively, divide the cheeses, tomatoes, and almonds among 6 individual plates.
Yield: Serves 6
Traditional Fondue
Recipe courtesy of iGourmet.com
Ingredients:
1 1/2 c. (6 oz.) shredded Gruyere
1 1/2 c. (6 oz.) shredded Emmental
1/2 c. (2 oz.) shredded Appenzeller
2 to 3 tbs. all purpose flour
1 clove garlic, halved
1 c. dry white wine
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Splash of kirsch, a Swiss liquor (optional)
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Pinch of nutmeg
Crusty bread cut into large cubes
Directions:
The best choice of pots is steel or cast iron medium sized (2-quart) pot with an enameled interior. In a medium sized bowl, combine the three cheeses and toss with flour. Rub inside of the fondue pot with the garlic halves.
Add wine and heat over medium heat until hot, though not boiling.
Stir in kirsch and lemon juice. Add one handful of cheese at a time to the wine mixture, constantly stirring and not adding more cheese until the previous has melted, bubbling gently and has the appearance of a light creamy sauce. Season with pepper and nutmeg. Remove the pot from the heat and place over an alcohol safety burner on the table. Adjust the flame so the fondue continues to bubble gently. Serve with plenty of crusty bread cubes.
