Vol. 3 No. 1

Brie, the King of Cheese

Our first selection this month is our fuzzy, French friend, acclaimed as one of the world's great cheeses – Brie. Characterized by an edible, downy-white rind and a cream-colored, buttery-soft interior, this cheese "oozes" at the peak of ripeness. Though several countries make this popular cheese, we bring you only the finest selection from France. Considered the best in the world, the French tradition of making Brie dates back to the 8th century, delivering to you the quality and flavor only an authentic cheese can deliver. The selection of this great cheese for our customers is an all-important process. Brie must be perfectly ripe for the best flavor, and so we bring you one that is plump and resilient to the touch, with a rind that might show some pale brown edges

Often referred to as the "king of cheeses," it is an interesting story how this prestigious title actually came about. Incredibly, it was the very subject of a unanimously passed “resolution” by the General Assembly of the United Nations. At the Congress of Vienna in the year 1815, representatives of 30 nations were brought together after the Battle of Waterloo to reconstruct the map of Europe. As a reprieve from the serious business of rehabilitating whole regions of the world after the devastating battles that took place, these gentlemen held balls and, above all, dinners. On one such occasion several were discussing the merits of various cheeses, at which point they decided to choose, and present, a cheese of their liking at the next fete. Monsieur de Talleyrand brought a Brie, which was immediately and unanimously proclaimed "king of cheeses." Maybe this made up a little bit for France having lost the war. Whether it is king will always be debated by cheese lovers the world over but there is certainly no denying that this cow's milk cheese is one of the greats.

Caerphilly, the Cheese that Hails from Wales

Pronounced car-`filly, this Welsh cheese has been steadfastly made since the middle of the 19th Century. Originating in small farms close to the town of, you guessed it, Caerphilly, it rapidly grew in popularity with the Welsh mine workers. The miners, who were well aware of the fact that cheese absorbed the toxic substances inhaled in the mines, had made cheddar their popular choice. Caerphilly, however, became an instant hit with its fresher flavor and softer texture that made it more palatable ‘down in the pit.’

Originally produced locally for domestic consumption to use up surplus milk, in the early nineteenth century it began to provide a source of prosperity when it was marketed at the fairs. Demand for this unique cheese quickly exceeded supply. Developing means to keep up with this new insatiable demand, a cheese market was established which invited cheese makers from Vale of Glamorgan to Chepstow to participate. The production of Caerphilly cheese reached a peak of 2 1/2 tons a week. The flat round cheeses, each weighing from five to ten pounds, were unloaded from the carts and wagons and stacked in an open building on the Twyn. This very sight is what inspired the following poem, no doubt authored by a grateful consumer and fellow cheese lover:

There was naught to be heard but Cheese! Cheese! All the time, yes, cheese! Cheese! And Cheese! Without ending. I verily thought that the people of Wales on nothing but cheese were depending. Were you to heap up every cheese upon cheese, and I to climb up had the power, I could change the moon every noon with great ease from the top of Caerphilly's Cheese Tower.

Gorgonzola, an Authentic Italian Treasure

Gorgonzola, our third and final selection, is a tangy cheese made in the northern Italian village of the same name located on the outskirts of Milan. Legend has it that this cheese was made there for the first time in 879 AD Its exact date of origin still remains a mystery, though there are some indications that it might go further back than the legend even states. The Romans, exhausting themselves as they herded the cows from the Alpine pastures to the meadows of the lush Po valley, aptly named this cheese "stracchino", which comes from the Italian word "stanco" meaning tired.

This unique cheese is made with either unpasteurized or pasteurized milk to which a mold is added. At about four weeks the cheese is pierced with thick needles to encourage the spread of the mold. Ripening in three to six months the cheese is usually wrapped in foil to keep it moist. Its color ranges from white to straw-yellow with a distinctively marbled blue-green mold. Gorgonzola is a rich, soft paste with herbs, produced exclusively from milk of the D.O.C. (certification of authenticity) regions. It is a cheese rich in minerals and vitamins with a texture that makes it excellent for salads and dips. The quality and authenticity of Gorgonzola are guaranteed in a number of ways. Very strict regulations are adhered to regarding the production standards, not to mention the fact that only the cheese made with milk from the D.O.C. region qualifies it to be true Gorgonzola. Each block of cheese, according to the law, must be branded at the location of production and must bear the name of the producer. It goes without saying that the cheese blocks must be branded with the Consortium’s stamp, debarking the cheese as, indeed, 100% Gorgonzola from Italy.

The Mold-Ripened Flavor of Brie

The Crucial Role of the Rind

The rind on any cheese plays a very important role, but in no other cheese-style is it as responsible for affecting the flavor and texture as much as in Brie or other mold-ripened cheeses. With these cheeses, the maturing process is very important. Without the proper care, the rind can die - or worse, run rampant. In either case, the cheese is lost. It is an important role of the affineur to coax the rind to flourish, then select just the right moments to "tame" the rind so the cheese evolves into the alluring mystery we are so captivated by. The mold's job is to protect the fresh curd. Any fresh cheese would begin to grow a rind of mold if left in the right conditions. The rind actually extends the life of the fragile curd, acting as a barrier to contaminants and holding in the moisture. They also have a lot to do with the ripening of the interior. The mold grows "roots" down into the cheese and as the roots grow, they change the consistency from firm to soft. These roots are not visible to the naked eye, but if you've ever cut into a cheese and it still has a chalky center, that's because the "roots" did not yet extend to the center.

The Two Types of Fuzz

There are two categories of mold-ripened cheeses - natural rind and white-mold (the Brie you have). Natural rind cheeses have had their mold put there by nature -it's grown without a lot of help from the maker. White-mold cheeses have their rind grown using a strain of culture (the most popular being penicillium candidum).

Sometimes, because they are natural, the molds won't be a uniform color. They can be blue, gray, mauve, just about any color, sometimes on the same cheese.

White molds, on the other hand, offer the cheesemaker a certain amount of control and "influence" over the flavor and texture of their cheese. They're often created in laboratories to produce a certain effect, and the cheesemaker buys them for that effect. The culture is then added to the milk at the beginning of the cheese making process or a solution of it is sprayed onto the surface of the freshly made cheese.

Colored Molds: Eating the Rind

As earlier stated, the mold on natural rind cheeses may be various colors. This style of cheese is also especially prone to picking up molds from the environment around it. So if you've kept your cheese in the fridge for a few days and it acquires some different colored mold, you can just rub it gently with your finger, then enjoy. Whatever the color of the mold, it represents a natural process and is quite edible (the only color to avoid is bright yellow).

Still, whether something is edible doesn't mean everyone wants to eat it. Should you? It's totally up to you - a matter of personal taste. Many French people won't eat the rind on a white mold but will on a natural rind. Others think the rind adds incredible flavor and texture to the cheese, but it also depends on the age. Eating the rind will definitely make the cheese stronger in flavor. To decide for yourself, try a little with, then without. After all, the only taste that really counts is yours!

How do I Know if the Cheese is Too Old?

A cheese can never really go “bad” - it's made from sour milk to begin with. The age and strength of a cheese is simply a personal preference. The natural rind and white mold cheeses can be eaten quite young, particularly if you prefer a more tart flavor and firm center. By waiting for the cheese to completely soften you can sometimes encounter a smell of ammonia. This is perfectly safe and is just an indication the cheese is more mature.

Tasting Notes

Brie

This creamy cheese is made with incredibly rich milk, producing a voluptuous center. Because the wild grasses and flowers flavor the milk, each has a unique flavor, influenced by the flora of a particular time and place. Its silky, unctuous texture and nutty, whipped cream flavor make it particularly good with a light champagne.

Caerphilly

This is a moist, crumbly cheese with a pale-colored paste. It has a slightly sour but buttery flavor and a sharp, but not overpowering smell. A cheese of international reputation, it is creamy, light and subtle in flavor… a gastronomic delight to satisfy all palates.

Gorgonzola

A traditional creamery cheese, Gorgonzola imparts a sharp, spicy flavor, the blue-green ripples providing an excellent contrast to the rich, creamy cheese. The taste ranges from mild to sharp, depending on age.

Recipes

Gorgonzola Nut Canapé

1/2 cup (4 oz.) Gorgonzola cheese

1/2 cup (4 oz.) butter 3 to 4 oz.

Chopped walnuts

Rye bread (sliced)

With a fork blend the Gorgonzola and butter until smooth and creamy. Add chopped nuts and mix well. After trimming crust off the bread, cut into 1-inch squares. Spread the cheese mixture on the lightly buttered bread squares. Arrange on plate and serve.

Lentil, Tomato and Cheese Salad

9 oz Caerphilly cheese

7-oz lentils (soaked for about three hours in cold water)

1 red onion

1 bay leaf

4 tbs. extra virgin olive oil

3 tbs. parsley

2 tbs. chopped fresh oregano or marjoram

9 oz cherry tomatoes

Salt and black pepper leaves of chicory or frisee and fresh herbs, to garnish

30 - 45 ml lightly toasted pine nuts

Take a large saucepan and put the lentils inside. Pour on a lot of water. Add the onion and bay leaf, cook for 10 minutes. Then lower the heat and cook for another 20 minutes or more, if needed.

Drain and season the lentils for better taste and put them in salad bowl. Toss them with olive oil. After letting it to cool for a while, add fresh parsley, oregano or marjoram and cherry tomatoes. Add the cheese.

Line a serving dish with chicory or frisee leaves and garnish with salad. Add

pine nuts and herbs and serve immediately.

Note: It’s best to use Puy lentils, but soak them in water before you start to cook.

Serves: 6

Brie and Turkey Sandwich

2 slices of dark pumpernickel bread

1 to 2 slices of smoked turkey breast

1 slice of Brie cheese

Lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise

Salt and pepper optional

Combine all the ingredients together as you would a normal sandwich and enjoy.