Vol 2 No 9

Featured Cheeses

Cheese from the Netherlands

Two of the cheeses we bring you this month hail from the land of windmills and tulips. Both named after the small villages they originate from, Edam and Leiden, these select cheeses are born out of hundreds of years of tradition and it is with pleasure that we bring them to you.

Our First Selection

Edam's roots go back at least 600 years to a town in northern Holland, which used to be the center of Dutch cheese exports. Nowadays Edam cheese is produced all over the Netherlands but the best is the extra aged Edam we bring to you this month, which is superior in taste and only made in a few places. As a comparison of flavor, Edam and Gouda are often lumped together as the same cheese, just in different shapes. This is unfortunately true in most cases, but the genuine Edam we have selected for our customers is noticeably drier, lighter, and tarter than Gouda.

Edam cheese is usually consumed young in the United States, when the texture is elastic and supple and the flavor is smooth and mild. The taste of Edam cheese differs greatly according to its age and it is this exquisite difference that you will taste in our cheese. The mature flavor is robust and strong making the tasting experience much more memorable. The perfectly round shape of this cheese is world-famous. This unique shape is due to a rapid hardening at the beginning of the aging process. It is made from semi-skimmed milk and because of this has a lower fat content than most.

This tradition started in North Holland, when the fat from the evening milking was skimmed off to make butter. The remaining skim milk was mixed with the next morning’s milking, developing a cheese with lower fat content. Back in those days the cheese wasn’t intentionally made low-fat but rather, butter was essential for cooking, so the need for butter came first. After the butter, cheese would then be made and as a result of less fat in the milk the cheese had a sharper flavor. The demand for this sharper flavor created such a huge following that it cemented Edams popularity forever.

Another factor that lends such an incredible flavor to the cheese is the quality of the milk itself. Dutch cows have a uniquely flavored grass to eat in the extremely lush grazing fields called “damp polders” (the Dutch name for drained land below sea level.) This particular milk is known the world over for its rich creaminess and makes the Edam cheese particularly smooth tasting and one we’re sure you’ll indulge in with pleasure.

Leyden, Another Superb Cheese from Holland

Leyden cheese, like Edam, originates from the Dutch homeland in the area around the city of Leiden (in Holland it is spelled Leiden but everywhere else Leyden). Because of the similar heritage and extraordinary quality that goes into each step of Leyden cheesemaking, we thought it the perfect complement for Edam cheese. And just like Edam it is made from rich, skimmed milk, but this is where the similarities end.

Leyden cheese has the additional ingredient of creamy buttermilk and is a deliciously firm, subtly spicy tasting dairy treat, unique in its flavor because of the cumin and caraway seeds used to season it. As Leyden cheese ages, the cumin seeds draw out whey from the curds, so it has a drier, firmer texture than Edam. The cumin provides an aromatic flavor that contrasts well with the creamy, nutty character of the cheese. Its spicy tang makes it a delicious snack, especially when served with a dark bread and beer. In Holland it is known as Cumin cheese, but because of it’s popularity around the city of Leiden it is exported as Leyden.

It’s history is quite mysterious, no one seems to know how it came about. One theory is that an apprentice cheesemaker was munching on some cumin seeds, a very popular spice in Holland, and accidentally spit some into the cheese vat. In fear of being fired he didn’t tell the cheesemaker and when the cheese was tasted, they all loved it! Probably not how it happened, but I guess we’ll never know.

Idiazabel Cheese from the Basque Region of Spain

This Month’s Superlative and Final Selection

Idiazábal is a small village located in the Goierri valley, in the heart of the Basque Region in northern Spain. It is surrounded by the large Aralar and Urbia mountain ranges. Idiazabel cheese came about long ago when each fall, with the first snow, farmers would descend from the mountain pastures with their flocks. At that time (as it still does today) an important farmers market would take place where smoked ewe's milk cheese (idiazabel) would be sold. The cheese was made during the summer in rural dwellings high in the mountains. The name Idiazábal became known in the markets as being synonymous with this cheese made in the mountains.

These days, the cheese is made in modern dairies that meet strict hygiene guidelines; those “rural dwellings” are not quite up to European Union standards. But the cheese is still made from the traditional recipe using milk from sheep that have grazed in the mountains, and smoked with the traditional woods: beechwood, hawthorn, or cherry. The taste is strong and pronounced, slightly acidic and piquant, buttery and consistent, with a characteristic sheep-milk flavor. The smoking makes the cheese somewhat stronger, with a pleasant aroma. Idiazábal cheese is made from fresh sheep’s milk, without pasteurizing and mixing with other milks. The Latxa breed of sheep, used to make this cheese, is strongly linked to the shepherding history of the Basque country. It is cured for a minimum of two months and, normally, no more than six, from pressed, uncooked paste. It has a briny flavor and, in some cases, has the penetrating taste of smoke, making this an exquisite taste for the palate and a premium choice for our customers.

The Tradition of Holland
“Cheese-Head” Country

If there is one real cheese country in the world, it's the Netherlands. This small, densely populated country is the world's largest exporter of cheese, butter, and powdered milk. In fact, the Dutch are known as `Cheese-Head’. As the world's largest exporter of cheese, the otherwise scurrilous name of `Cheese-Head' could be considered an honorary nickname.

In Dutch, `cheese-head' is also another word for the mold in which the cheese is made. It is rumored that in the Middle Ages farmers in North Holland used these wooden molds as helmets and this is how the enemy could identify an army of `cheese-heads' approaching. Holland is unquestionably the `cheese country' of the world not only because of its high export figures or the wide variety of Dutch cheeses available, but also because the Dutch culture is so deeply rooted in cheese. The Netherlands for many is the land of windmills, clogs, and tulips. It is also the land of lush green meadows and peacefully grazing cattle. However, it is the land of milk, butter, and cheese that forms the basis of Holland's prosperity.

Gaining status as the largest cheese exporter in the known world started during the 17th century when Holland had established extensive trading routes throughout the world. As a result of this commerce, the Dutch specialized in making cheeses that had exceptional keeping qualities. During the last century, the Dutch dairy industry has undergone a radical modernization process. New cowsheds, advance milking machines, computers and automated feeding, have become commonplace on the farm of today. But at the same time, many dairy farms still make cheese using the time-honored method. Because milk and dairy products are part of the Dutch national culture, you will find reminders of this heritage throughout the country. There are museums in which you find old and new utensils for milking, as well as those for butter and cheese making. All through the Netherlands historical statues and buildings remain as a testimony to the importance of the dairy industry throughout Holland's history and the extraordinary impact it has had on not only its own country, but also the world.

Jude’s Serving Suggestions
The Ideal Edam
The versatility of Edam cheese is well known in culinary circles. Because it grates, slices, and cubes easily and doesn’t crumble like other popular hard cheeses, it is ideal for cooking, whether in a sauce, salad or as a snack. It makes ideal toppings on macaroni or spaghetti and is a perfect ingredient for those dishes where it is desirable for the cheese to keep its shape, such as toasted sandwiches and deep-fried cheese.

Pairing Your Cheese with Wine

Dutch cheese and wine are perfect partners and just as in marriage, success depends upon the right combination. Although it's self-evident that your own taste determines the choice, the following guidelines might assist you:

· Mature or aged Edam goes well with the rich, sweet flavor of port wine.

· Cheese and wine are at their best when they complement each other. For a young mild or smooth cheese a dry, light wine is the best partner. A mature robust cheese demands a full-bodied red wine.
· The sequence of serving cheese and wine is also an important point to remember. Usually white wine precedes red. With cheese, start with young and progress to aged, or from the mild to the piquant.

Cheese Q & A

Question: There are times when I take my cheese out of the refrigerator and it has the quality of being “soggy”. How can I prevent that and keep the texture and taste of the cheese fresh for a longer period?

Answer: Cheese should be refrigerated at temperatures of 35 to 40° F in the original wrapping until ready to use. Storing cheese out of the airflow in the refrigerator’s cooler prevents it from picking up other “food
flavors” common in all refrigerators.

If the original wrap is removed, rewrap the cheese tightly with plastic film wrap or foil to prevent air pockets. Once cheese is exposed to air, mold and dehydration may occur. To protect cheese from mold, always work with it in a clean area. It will keep better if re-wrapped with new plastic wrap after each time opened. To be extra cautious, double-wrap the cheese or place it back in its original container or a sealed container, if possible. Strong smelling cheeses should be well wrapped and kept in a separate container to prevent odors from transferring to other foods.

Question: How long will my cheese last and is there anything I can do to keep it fresh longer?

Answer: Soft cheeses should be eaten soon after purchasing. As a general rule, the harder the cheese, the longer it will remain fresh, but remember, natural cheese will continue to ripen no matter how carefully it is stored. Hard cheeses will generally keep for several months, whereas softer cheeses will keep from one to three weeks after opening if stored in an airtight container. In addition, large pieces of cheese tend to keep longer than shredded cheese. Opened packages rewrapped tightly and stored between 30 and 40° F are best if used within three to four weeks. Frozen packages opened and rewrapped tightly and stored at 0° F or below are best if used within six to eight weeks.


Question: Should I not eat cheese if it is past the date stamped on the packaging?

Answer: The "best if used by" date is intended to tell you how long the product will retain best flavor or quality. The term is not a safety date. "Best if used by" dates are intended as useful guidelines. Some foods may deteriorate more quickly and other foods may last longer than the times suggested. A number of factors can shorten the useful life of a food product, such as improper handling and inadequate storage. Food products may be consumed after the "best if used by" date if the product has been properly stored and handled.

Stuffed Edam
1 Whole Edam Cheese (about 1lb)
1/4 cup Mayonnaise
2 tsp. Chive
2 tbs. White Wine
2 tsp. Chopped Parsley

· Allow Edam cheese to come to room temperature before starting.
· Remove wax coating from cheese.
· Cut a 2-1/2 inch circle from top of cheese, leaving a 1/4-inch shell.
· Place scooped out cheese into food processor or blender and add mayonnaise, chive and parsley. Process until smooth.
· Spoon mixture back into shells and refrigerate.
· Serve with crackers.