the gourmet cheese of the month club

Past Newsletters - July 2010

Artisan Spanish Cheeses – Tres Quesos Grandes!

Over the centuries, the rugged mountains and lush valleys of Spain have fostered many unique cultures, among them, the Celtic people in Galicia, the Moors in sunny Andalucía, and the Basques, whose origins are lost in the mists of history. Due to her many distinct regions and cultures, Spain produces an amazing array of over 100 artisan cheeses from the milk of cows, sheep, and goats. This month we bring you a representative selection of these distinct hand-fashioned cheeses that are justifiably the pride of Spain.

ManchegoManchego: A Gustatory Legend from the Spanish Heartland

Manchego derives its name from the central region of La Mancha, which was also the home of the legendary Don Quixote. It is to Spain what cheddar is to England: a legend in its own land and a treasure for the rest of the world. This month, it is a special privilege to present this tasty, piquant and nutty milk cheese to our loyal club members. It’s a cheese with a rich history as unique as is its pleasing taste. We are delighted to introduce you to one of that nation's prized exports and Spain's most popular cheese.

Manchego has a distinctive flavor and an equally distinctive look. It can be recognized by a unique, zigzag or cross hatch pattern on its black-gray or buff-colored rind which is created by the rippled surface of the press used to make it. Don’t eat the rind—it’s inedible but inside you’ll discover an ivory-colored interior with several small holes that’s a real treat. Most cheese lovers are pleasantly surprised at their first taste of this hard cheese. It has an intense, zesty taste and a crumbly texture that's rich, full and slightly salty at the finish. Even its aroma has been described as special, suggesting roast lamb to some. Manchego is marketed at various stages of maturity from "cured" at 13 weeks to "aged" at more than three months. The aging period must be a minimum of 60 days.

True Manchego is produced only from the milk of the Manchega sheep. (Other Spanish cheeses made with ewe’s milk are commonly referred to as Manchego-style.) The Manchega sheep graze mostly on dry pasture, fallow land and stubbly brush fields on a high plateau outside of the cities of Toledo, Albacete, and Cuenca in a region southeast of Madrid. The somewhat harsh grazing conditions in the region might be expected to yield low-fat milk from which the cheese is manufactured. In fact, the opposite is true. Manchego actually has a fat content of up to 57 percent, which explains its rich, intoxicating taste that is savored throughout the world.

The base milk used for the cheese must have at least 6 percent fat. The cheese is subjected to a rigorous and detailed production process while subjected to levels of 75 to 85 percent humidity. Typically Manchego is produced in a cylindrical shape with each cheese weighing between four and eight pounds.

Tasting Notes & Interesting Facts

Milk: Ewe's Milk
Characteristics: Mild, nutty flavor. Hard, compact texture
Uses: Stand alone with bread. Or serve solo as a snack or with fruit for dessert.

Not surprisingly, Spain's most famous cheese enjoys not only a rich taste, but a rich history that can be traced back to ancient times. The La Mancha plains in southern and central Spain were a focus of dispute for centuries between Northern Christians and Southern Muslims who fought for control of its pastures. Historians of early Rome chronicled the area for its livestock farming. The Muslims that inhabited the land from the 8th through the 11th centuries dubbed it "Manya," which means "land without water." Eventually, that would translate into "Mancha," the name that is used today.

In the 12th century King Alfonso VI conquered and united the region forcing the Muslim inhabitants to retreat to the Andalucia region of modern day Spain. By the end of the century, the resulting lack of political stability led the area's stock farmers to organize cooperatives, which in turn helped bring stronger identity and political and economic power to the region's agricultural inhabitants. By the 1600s, farming had advanced, but more efficient use of pastureland led to the decline of stock-farming and the rise of land farming. By the mid-1800s, wool production (once a staple of the region) was in decline and the production of meat and cheese moved to the forefront of the local economy.

By the beginning of the 1900s cheese production steadily grew and La Mancha evolved into a regional cheese powerhouse with production techniques tied to the local Manchega sheep herds. The result is the delicious and unique cheese that is being made available to you today. Should you choose to enjoy it with wine, check out the International Wine of the Month Club at www.winemonthclub.com.

Idiazábal: In the Tradition of Basque Shepherds

IdiazábalIdiazábal is a classic, delicious, robust cheese recognized primarily for its rich, smoky flavor – a tradition launched centuries ago when the cheeses were stored near the night fires of the field shepherds who lived in adjacent mountain huts. The cheeses were made only during the summertime in rural dwellings on top of the mountains.

Living conditions in the Basque region of Spain where this cheese was born have vastly improved, and so has the market for this exceptional sheep’s milk cheese. Thankfully, some of the old traditions die hard. Idiazábal retains its standing as "the quintessential shepherds' cheese" and is considered a delicacy among cheese purists. It is a treat sure to delight the palate all year 'round, but is especially well suited for the outdoor cooking of summer months.

At the end of the Idiazábal aging process, a smoking process occurs using various local tree woods. The intensity of the smoked taste depends upon the intensity and length of the process, as well as the woods used. Typically, the cheese is smoked with cherry wood, hawthorn or beech wood. There is also an un-smoked version made in lower elevations where there was no tradition of smoking food products.

A real favorite of those who enjoy a tasty, chewy cheese, Idiazábal has a hard, dry texture yet feels pleasantly oily when consumed. Cheese lovers rave about its distinctive rich, buttery flavor and its perfumed aroma. Even its hard, orange-brown rind is edible. The cheese is often served with a full-bodied Spanish red wine and is considered a perfect companion for grilled or barbequed meats. It is the perfect cheese to melt on top of grilled burgers. How ironic that the most famous of Basque cheeses should find notoriety on America's outdoor barbeques! Other ways to enjoy Idiazabal include serving it on toasted bread, over salted crackers or grated in salads. Regardless of how you serve Idiazábal, you’re sure to be pleased and delighted by it.

Tasting Notes & Interesting Facts

Milk: Ewe's Milk
Characteristics: Hard, compact texture. Sweet, smoky taste.
Uses: Grilled and barbequed meats; cubed and grated over salads.

Mahón: A Mediterranean Island Treasure for Cheese Lovers

MahónDairy farming to produce cheese follows only tourism as the leading industry of Menorca, the northernmost of Spain’s Balearic Islands in the picturesque Mediterranean Sea. One taste of Mahón, a smooth, supple hard cheese named for the capital (and port city) of Menorca, will prove to any skeptic why cheese production here has become world renowned.

A unique cheese with a sweet and fruity aroma and a rich, bold flavor, Mahón is not for those who prefer bland cheeses. Made from cow's milk, it has a yellowish rind and a spicy and somewhat salty cheese flavor.

Although Menorca is a small rocky island, it produces enough cheese to rank Mahón in second place among Spanish cheeses, behind Manchego. Locals have been producing this exotic cheese for more than seven hundred years, and it has become a true island tradition handed down for generations. More than six hundred farms populate the small island, producing the milk and the cheese, while benefiting from a mild climate, high humidity and heavy rainfall. Professional cheese curers also inhabit the island. They purchase the farm-made cheeses on a weekly basis and dry them naturally. Such a tried-and-true ritual may seem quaint in today's highly mechanized world, but there is little doubt that the long-established and painstaking production process benefits modern-day cheese lovers.

As with most farmhouse cheeses, Mahón gains flavor as it ages and is sold at various stages of maturity. The cheese is ripened for a minimum of two months in underground caves. This ripening process helps make Mahón a must for any true cheese connoisseur. The cheese comes in several varieties, all of which are prepared for long-term storage and transportation. Typically it is shipped in large, six pound squares in keeping with Mahón's long history of being shipped by sea from its namesake port to eager Spanish and European consumers.

More than seventy years ago, the island's cheese production got a major boost when the industry was officially established and new milking cows were imported. Feeding and health care for the animals were improved and, as a result, milk production flourished. Today, Menorca's cow herds are renowned for superior milk production. That, in turn, has led to more fame for the island's cheese. Mahón received Denomination of Origin classification and protection in 1985. This month you join a bevy of discriminating cheese aficionados around the world who enjoy this excellent cheese every day.

Tasting Notes & Interesting Facts

Milk: Cow's Milk
Characteristics: Bold, spicy, slightly salty taste. Hard texture.
Uses: Highly versatile. Grate over pasta, rice, vegetables. Serve as appetizer with olive oil.

Culture Corner
Cheese
Pronunciation
Recommended Wine/Beer

Manchego

man-CHAY-goh

Fruity Spanish reds and whites, sparkling whites or dry sherry

Idiazábal

ee-dee-ah-ZAH-bahl

Try this cheese with your favorite red wine!

Mahón

may-HONE

All Spanish wines. Beer.


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