Past Newsletters - June 2010
Sizzling Summer Swiss Cheeses!
Appenzeller Extra
Appenzeller cheese comes to us from the mountain district of Appenzell in northeast Switzerland. Historically, each valley of the Alps produced its own specialty cheese that was used to fulfill tax obligations. Appenzeller is actually documented in tax records that go back over 700 years! The cheese was given its AOC identity designation—similar to a patent, but in the cheese industry— in 1981 and is thus protected by a special authority in Switzerland. It's a distinction that takes decades to earn and it attests to the uniqueness, high quality and authenticity of a cheese. Not surprisingly, Appenzeller is favored the world over, but that doesn't mean it's always easy to come by.
Three main varieties of Appenzeller are produced: “Classic” (silver label), aged 3-4 months; “Surchoix” (gold label), aged 4-6 months; and the limited-production “Extra” (black label), aged 6 months or longer. One of the key characteristics of Appenzeller is the brine curing process every cheese wheel undergoes. Each cheese is treated with a mixture of wine, spices and herbal brine, the recipe for which remains a well-kept secret known only to a few. The brining lends a spicy character that grows stronger the longer the cheese ages.
This month we bring you Appenzeller Extra, a relatively rare (making up just 2.4% of all Appenzeller production), full-fat, semi-hard cow's milk cheese that is selected and matured with the highest of standards, and sent to market at the height of its maturity. After exacting analysis, cheese-making experts carefully select the best of the Appenzeller cheeses—those that fulfill a rigid set of standards—to mature for long periods and become Appenzeller Extras. The same experts who select the products to be aged to full maturity also oversee the aging process: six months in climate-controlled cheese cellars maintained at exactly 15 degrees Celsius. We are very pleased to be able to bring you this rare cheese, sought out by connoisseurs around the globe for its unique, full-impact taste.
Tasting Notes: Aged for 6 months, this cheese is on the slightly spicy side, with a pronounced aroma from the extensive brine aging. It's a pressed, cooked-curd cheese with occasional pea-size holes. We found it to have a pleasing, smooth texture. Its real charm though, is its fruity tanginess, imparted by the wine or cider wash it receives during curing, making it a perfect complement to delicious summer fruits or to be served as a dessert cheese. Milder Appenzeller varieties, on the other hand, are excellent for snacks, sandwiches, grilling, or as a melting cheese. Of course, the use of wine in the curing process also makes this cheese particularly well-suited to wine pairing.
Swiss Tilsit
In the mid-19th Century, Dutch settlers went to East Prussia (now part of Russia and Poland) near the town of Tilsit. Away from their familiar homeland and with inadequate supply lines to deliver their native cheeses, these settlers craved the Gouda they had come to love. Through their determination and their passion for fine cheese, they resolved to attempt a recreation of their beloved Gouda.
Unfortunately for them, but luckily for us, one cannot make Dutch Gouda in a damp, moldy Prussian cellar. During their efforts to recreate Gouda, the cheese, aging in a damp cellar, became infected with molds, yeasts, and bacteria. Thus Tilsit was born. The settlers named the cheese after the Prussian town of Tilsit where they settled. It is sometimes called “Tilsiter”.
The Swiss love cheese and it didn’t take long for them to co-opt Tilsit where it has been manufactured since 1893. Swiss Tilsit is produced in 3 varieties: A mild version (green label) is made from pasteurized milk. There’s a more strongly flavored one, made from fresh, unpasteurized milk (red label). It’s usually called “Farmhouse Tilsit” and is enjoyed by many who enjoy a more intense cheese. It’s aged for about five months, a process which yields a strong-smelling cheese similar to Limburger in aroma. Farmhouse Tilsit is a much sought after version of Tilsit but has the disadvantage of being less versatile than its milder cousin, which is used in a wide variety of recipes. The third version of Tilsit is produced from pasteurized milk with added cream and sports a yellow-label.
Similar to Havarti, Tilsit has a fuller and more intense flavor than Havarti. With a brownish-orange washed rind and made of partially skimmed milk, this exquisite cheese has a rich yellow color with a springy elastic semi-firm texture, making it ideal for slicing. Tilsit also has a piquant flavor, lending itself nicely as a table cheese.
Tasting Notes: A rare luxury in the United States, Tilsit is a fragrant, surface-ripened cheese that is sure to satisfy. Note this cheese's lovely buttery yellow color and tiny elliptical holes. We found the consistency to be springy and elastic, yet rather moist and creamy. Look for a mild flavor that's delicate with spicy undertones. A handy cheese to have at your disposal, Tilsit can be cubed for use in salads, heated for addition to sauces, melted over potatoes, flans, or on burgers. Often flavored with caraway seed and peppercorns, Tilsit is a complement to hearty brown/rye breads and dark beers. Tilsit is similar to, but has a much fuller flavor than, Havarti. Think of it as Havarti with a flavor boost and aroma to match!
Tomme de Savoie
At the geographical union of northern and southern Europe you'll find the Rhone-Alps region, an area rich in culture, history and landscape. Here, at the meeting point of France, Switzerland, and Italy is a countryside long-famous for creating celebrated wines and sumptuous cheeses. Abondance, Bleu de Gex, Beaufort, Comte, Chevrotin, Emmental, Fourme de Montbrison, Picodon, Reblochon, Rigottes, Saint Marcellin, and Tomme de Savoie are some of the hundreds of cheeses from these fertile lands.
This month we’ve chosen Tomme de Savoie for you, a semi-hard cow's milk cheese. Its interior is a buttery beige color and typically has numerous holes (or eyes) pervading the pâté. This bucolic gem is rather savory, yet surprisingly low in fat, containing in the range of 20-45% percent. The low fat content is due to the fact that it is made from the skim milk left over after separated cream has been used to make butter or richer cheeses. This cheese comes from Savoie, a region on the eastern boarder of Switzerland, where these cheesemakers are well known for Tomme-style cheeses.
The word Tomme has various meanings, referring to the wheel-like shape of the cheese mold as well as implying that the product is made using milk from more than one herd. Despite the milk mélange that is sometimes employed in its production, this cheese has a characteristically simple flavor, which is a major component of its classic charm. Also simple is the naming scheme applied to this cheese, though it might not appear that way at first glance. Tomme cheeses are named according to the region where they are produced, such as Savoie, the village in the Alps where this month's feature is made year round. Although this cheese is made throughout the year, many consider its character to have a degree of seasonality due to seasonal differences in feed: winter hay or summer grass. Overall, the flavor can generally be described as nutty and earthy, with summer varieties often regarded as grassier than their winter-made counterparts. Aging in traditional cellars for several months allows a thick rind to develop and often imparts a slight cellar flavor to the cheese.
Tomme de Savoie often has tiny holes and is very savory with a mild aroma. Some cheese connoisseurs point out that this cheese is noted for its "fruity fragrance and rustic simplicity." One cheese taster describes Tomme de Savoie as "a personal favorite - rustic, simple, delicious"!
Tasting Notes: The maturing process takes two or more months, producing a cheese with a rustic appearance — a thick, sometimes fuzzy, grey rind with patches of yellow or red molds. The pâté can be a buttery color or so pale that it is virtually white. It has many small eyes, and smells and tastes earthy like a cave. Tomme de Savoie is mild and creamy, fruity and nutty, but it's also a robust cheese with overtones of salt and an unmistakably raw flavor. Pair it with sausages, fruit, bread, and wine.
Culture Corner |
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Cheese |
Pronunciation |
Recommended Wine/Beer |
Appenzeller |
AH-puhn-zeller |
Fruity white, Cru Beaujolais or Burgundy. |
Swiss Tilsit |
TILL-sit |
Strong red wines or beers |
Tomme de Savoie |
TUM-duh-sav-WAH |
Most light, fruity reds or whites |
