Past Newsletters - Mar 2009

SMILE: SAY WELCOME SPRING WITH THE BEST OF EUROPEAN CHEESES

St. Marcellin – Historical Fact or a Royal Fairy Tale?

As the story goes, in autumn of 1445, while on a hunting trip, a bear of tremendous proportions attacked Prince Louis and his entourage. It must have been a big one, indeed, as the group feared for their lives, despite their numbers and numerous firearms. They were out hunting, weren’t they? Fortunately, two loggers heard their cries (or, um, manly, royal bellows) and came to the rescue of Prince Louis and his party. After the harrowing incident, and the demise of their attacker, Prince Louis broke bread with the loggers, who, during their meal, introduced him to St. Marcellin cheese.

Perhaps it was the trauma of his experience or the excitement in retelling such a good tale, but Prince Louis never forgot this remarkable, hard-to-find cheese, nor did he ever tire of eating it! When the Prince returned to Paris to be crowned King Louis XI, he brought St. Marcellin cheese makers to Paris; and, as a result, this cheese has been enjoyed by members of French society for more than 500 years. This small, round cheese is produced only in the Southeastern region of Dauphine and was originally made using goat’s milk. These days, however, most is crafted with cow’s milk. True to its rustic legend, St. Marcellin is most often found wrapped in chestnut or grape leaves, which turn from fresh green to a dark brown as the cheese ripens. In contrast to the brash events surrounding Prince Louis’ discovery of this cheese are St. Marcellin’s rather delicate flavors. The version we’ve chosen for you has been dipped in wine or eau-de-vie (a colorless Brandy distilled from fruit juice), has a beige crust with blue mold, a soft, beige, creamy interior, and an intensely nutty and fruity flavor. When ripe, it is quite runny (not to mention irresistible) with a slightly yeasty taste. It’s been declared “a cheese to worship” by some who describe it. We’re pretty confident that King Louis XI would have agreed!

Tasting Notes: St. Marcellin, from the Dauphine Region of southeastern France, can be found in many stages of affinage, or maturity, ranging from the fresh to the very ripe. Like many cheeses, as St. Marcellin matures, the flavor becomes more pronounced, yet still remains overall mild, slightly acidic, and salty, with some nutty flourishes. As this cheese comes from the Rhone-Alpes region of France, one might expect it to partner nicely with any Rhone red wine, and one would be right. Temperature can have a big impact on the flavor and overall character of cheese—we suggest you enjoy this cheese at a temperature where the interior clings to the knife. We hope you thoroughly enjoy experiencing the delicate flavors of this truly noble cheese! It's an impressive addition to any cheeseboard and is splendid when served as an appetizer or snack accompanied by olives and a good, coarse salami.

Red Leicester – Compliments of Greeta, Wendy, Hyacinth and other English Holsteins

Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Company is located on a working dairy farm called Sparkenhoe Farm, in Upton, a small hamlet in the South West Leicestershire countryside of England. The owners, David and Jo Clarke, are dairy farmers whose families have farmed in the area for many generations. David manages the 150 head of pedigree Holstein Friesian cows, all lovingly named—among them Wendy, Greeta and Hyacinth. They’re fed on the farm’s lush pastures, being milked at 5 a.m. and 4 p.m.  Calving takes place all year round to keep the milk supply as consistent as possible. (For our non-farmer readers, typically calving is seasonal.)

Red Leicester has a long history with Sparkenhoe Farm. In 1745, it was made by Mr George Chapman, who was said to have had “one of the best herds of longhorns known anywhere, including two prize winning bulls ‘Old Sparkenhoe’ and the ‘Earl of Upton.’” But the Chapmans ceased cheese production in 1875. The cheese continued to be made until the 1950's, when, like so many traditional hand made cheeses, the process succumbed to industrialized methods and went by the wayside.

David and Jo started making their traditional Red Leicester Cheese in November 2005, using milk produced from their own cows and pumped straight from barn directly into the parlour, as the English would say. It is still the only Leicester made in Leicestershire. They discovered and follow an old recipe and, using unpasteurized milk, they make “Sparkenhoe” in a totally authentic way. To give the cheese its rich color, they add annatto (a natural plant dye obtained from annatto seeds, also known as achiote, which is used primarily in Mexican and Caribbean cooking to impart a rich yellow/orange color). The curds and whey are then scalded gently and separated. The curds are then cut into blocks and turned to release further whey before being put through a mill. After adding salt, the cheese is put into molds and pressed for 24 hours, then turned and pressed for another 24 hours before being bound in cloth to mature for four-and-a-half months. The cheeses, as is traditional, are shaped into large wheels of 10 kg. and 20 kg.

Tasting Notes: Red Leicester’s texture is firm and smooth with a relatively high moisture content that’s evenly distributed throughout the wheel. The deep, full, pleasing flavors are offset by a slight citrus tang that lingers through to the finish. It’s a beautifully balanced cheese that pairs wonderfully with a variety of wines, both white and red. Try it with a Spanish Rioja! If ale is your preference, a brown one would complement it well.

Brie – The Queen of Cheeses

Acclaimed as one of the world’s great cheeses – in fact, often called the “Queen of Cheeses” – velvety French Brie is characterized by a downy-white edible rind and a cream-colored, buttery-soft interior that oozes at the peak of ripeness. Though several countries produce this popular cheese, we have selected the finest selection from France. Considered the best in the world, the French tradition of making Brie dates back to the 8th century. Sorry, is that right? Let us check the books for a moment… uh huh… uh huh… yup, says it right here—the 8th century! Wow!! Actually, there is some evidence that places Brie’s origins all the way back to the 5th century! But definitive documentation comes to us from Charlemagne’s chronicler, Eginhard de Saint Gall, who reported that the Emperor enjoyed it at the Priory of Rueil in the town of Brie in the year 774.

Clearly the French have got the art of making Brie down to a science, and we are proud to deliver the quality and flavor that an authentic cheese such as this offers. The selection of this great cheese is all-important, which is why we employ the great expertise of the folks at Zingerman’s Deli, where they have two staff people who travel the world selecting the finest farmhouse cheeses (work many of us would envy). Brie must be perfectly ripe for the best flavor, so we bring you one that is plump and resilient to the touch, with a rind that might show some pale brown edges.

It is an interesting story how this cheese earned its regal subtitle, “The Queen of Cheeses.” At the Congress of Vienna in the year 1815, representatives of 30 nations were brought together after the Battle of Waterloo to reconstruct the map of Europe. As a reprieve from the serious business of rehabilitating whole regions of the world after the devastating battles that took place, these gentlemen invited those in power to prestigious balls and banquets. On one such occasion, several were discussing the merits of various cheeses, at which point they decided to choose and present a cheese of their liking at the next fete. Monsieur de Talleyrand brought a Brie, which was immediately and unanimously proclaimed “Queen of Cheeses.”

Importance of the Rind

The rind on any cheese plays a very important role, but in no other cheese-style is it as responsible for affecting the flavor and texture as much as in Brie or other mold-ripened cheeses. With these cheeses, the maturing process is critical, for without the proper care, the rind can die or, worse, overpower. In either case, the cheese is lost. It is an important role of the affineur (those who deal with the production and care of cheese) to coax the rind to flourish, and then select just the right moments to “tame” the rind so the cheese evolves into the alluring, tasty mystery that captivates so many.

Tasting Notes: Made with phenomenally rich milk, Brie is rich and creamy with a center that could be described as voluptuous. The flavor is subtle and somewhat unique—wild grasses and flowers flavor the milk used to produce the product so each variety of Brie has its own flavor, depending on the flora of a particular time and place. Brie is an excellent dessert cheese. Try it with croissants, soft bread rolls, melons, or grapes. It’s a good party cheese as well and often enjoyed with a Bourgogne, Cabernet, or Medoc wine. Consider trying it with a fruity Japanese Plum wine. Its silky, unctuous texture and nutty, whipped cream flavor make it particularly good with light champagne.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
St. Marcellin	San mar-sell-AHN	Rhone Reds
French Brie	BREE	Particularly good with a light champagne
Red Leicester	Red LESS-ter	Makes a good partner for beer