Past Newsletters - October 2009

Honored European Cheeses!

This month we bring you three distinctive European cheeses that will add a bit of flair to your fall season and savoir faire to your life. Our first two selections come from a land known for its romantic language and its love of extraordinary food, and cheese ranks near—if not at—the top of French gustatory pleasures. Our French cheeses both originate in the lush mountain meadows of France. Then, we bring you a Spanish cheese likewise steeped in tradition.

Le Chevrot — C’est Magnifique!

The lush valley of the Loire River in central France is rich in history, architecture and cuisine. Its sophisticated cities, luxuriant landscapes, magnificent foods and superb wines create a paradise for locals and tourists. Orleans, capital of the Loire departement (departements are equivalents to counties in the States) was France’s intellectual capital in the 13th century, attracting artists, poets and troubadours to the Royal Court. But this medieval court was fickle in their fancies, never staying in one place for long, which led to the building of magnificent châteaux all along the Loire River.

The region is renowned for these regal relics of royal days gone by, as well as its vast array of remarkable vineyards and wines. Of course, we would be remiss to omit mention of the stunning diversity of cheeses that come from the area, especially since we are featuring the very delicious Le Chevrot which comes to us from this famed valley. The Loire Valley is particularly famous for its goat’s milk cheeses. They come in a wide array of shapes—you’ll find everything from pyramids, wheels, truncated cones, hearts, logs and cylinders. This style of cheese was probably introduced to the region in the eighth century, when the Saracen invaders from Spain reached the southern banks of the Loire River. Most of the invaders were later repelled, but some remained with their goat herds, ultimately providing the foundation for their famous goat cheeses or chevres, which means “goats” in French.

Like many cheeses from the area, Le Chevrot has been described as a French masterpiece. Handmade near the province of Poitou, which borders the Loire Valley to the southwest, it is an unquestionably superb goat’s milk cheese. It’s characterized by a fresh, buttery, faintly winey taste and an inviting aroma of ripe figs. It is also known for having a distinct freshness of flavor and a supple, lush quality with a slightly nutty, almost fermented taste that borders on the addictive. You’ll find this cheese encased in a wrinkly rind that is edible; in fact, eating the rind will strengthen the flavor of Le Chevrot. The cheese itself is a moderately aged cheese and serves as an excellent compromise between mild taste and rich texture. Its flavor intensifies when grilled, and in fact, broiled Chevre is the basis of a delicious Chevre salad popular throughout France.

Extraordinary French Goat Cheese Salad for Two

• 6 slices of Le Chevrot: cut horizontally into discs 1/4 inch thick.
• 6 wonton wrappers and olive oil for frying
• Mixture of your favorite leafy greens (spinach, mesclun, arugula)
• Your favorite vinaigrette (or try ours: olive oil, vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt & pepper)

Wrap each slice of cheese in a wonton wrapper and set aside in fridge. Prepare leafy greens in a bowl, and whip up a fresh batch of your favorite vinaigrette. Dress and toss salad and separate onto 2 plates.
Heat oil in a fry pan to a medium heat and gently place cheese wrapped in wonton wrappers into pan. Fry for about 2-3 minutes or till wonton wrappers are golden. Flip over and cook other side.
When golden, remove and place 3 pieces on each salad. Serve immediately under a warm fall sky with a chilled bottle of white wine or champagne and a loaf of fresh & crusty French bread.

Note: An alternative to frying the cheese is to place slices of cheese onto pieces of toast and broil under heat till golden brown, then serving on your salad.
Le Chevrot is yet another delectable treat from the prolific gastronomy of the Loire Valley region which more than a geographical locale—it’s a rich producer of culture and cuisine. No valley in France contributes so many stellar wines and cheeses that so greatly enhance and help define the culture of all French citizens. Like the river Loire, this vast region runs through the very heart of French life. A vacation to the area is always recommended, though winter months are less desirable of course, unless you’re heading east to ski the Alps. Fall and spring are incredible seasons for vacationing in the valley. For more information, visit the following site, and if you elect to visit France, Bon Voyage! http://www.franceway.com/regions/loire/intro.htm

Comté — Another Wonderful Way the French Say “Cheese!”

Comté (pronounced con-tay) is a cheese made using time honored traditions of the Franche-Comté region of France in the Jura Mountains bordering Switzerland. The terrain is rugged but also characterized by plateaus with lush green fields, allowing for the production of this "mountain" cheese. Comté is not only a world renowned cheese with subtle aromas prized by gourmets internationally, it’s first and foremost a valuable foodstuff—wholesome, natural and an essential ingredient in achieving a balanced diet. The outstanding nutritional quality of Comté is the result of the traditional manner in which it is produced, in rhythm with nature and the seasons.

The main characteristic of the cheese is its exceptional aromatic diversity. In 1993, a professional tasting jury identified more than 200 aromatic components in Comté. It’s not necessary to be an expert, however, to appreciate what a surprising experience tasting different Comtés can be. One young Comté may exude a distinct odor of fresh hazelnuts while another will reveal a discreet touch of nutmeg. A young, 6-month old Comté will bring to mind the delicate smell of buttery mashed potatoes while an older, more patiently aged specimen like the one we have shipped you may surprise with its cascade of fruity, spicy, and roasted flavors that unfold gradually and last on the palate. Each Comté has its own unique aromatic and unpredictable perfume. Their exceptional diversity can be attributed to a couple of different factors. The first is connected to the diversity of the land itself. The apparent unity and geological and historical coherence of the region do not detract from the variety of the soils, and the microclimates and flora naturally create what could be called "cru" just as it is in the world of wine-making. In the heart of the Jura massif, the old folk are even capable of distinguishing the dairy where a particular cheese was made. The second factor is attributed to the duration of the maturing period which enables nature to unfold its divine alchemy at a leisurely pace.

Thanks to its uniqueness, its cultural importance and its economic contribution to the region, Comté cheese was one of the first cheeses to be awarded a label of origin guaranteeing its quality (AOC). All Comté is graded using a 20 point grading system. A green label denotes "Comte Extra" and ensures the cheese has been graded 15 points or higher. This is the Comté you are receiving with this month's selections. As one of the premiere cheeses of France, we know you'll enjoy this fine taste of French living. Bon appétit!

Spain’s Zamorano – A Nomadic Tradition

To find the source of the third of this month’s featured cheeses, head southwest from the Alps, cross the Pyrenees and stop once you find yourself in the famed Spanish province of Zamora, in the Autonomous Community of Castilla y Leon. For over a century this region, located northwest of Madrid, has earned praise and enjoyed fame for its fantastic ewe’s milk cheeses. You’re probably already familiar with Manchego cheese, Spain’s best-known sheep’s milk cheese. However, you may not be as well acquainted with another variety, made much the same way, which has likewise been adored by locals and the international community for more than 100 years. Made from the milk of the Castilian and Churra breeds of sheep native to this province, this pressed cheese has a distinctive, slightly piquant flavor, which is full-bodied and lingers on the palate.

As with all cheese, the flavor of Zamorano comes from a unique combination of terrestrial elements, which ultimately influence both the milk of the animals from which it is made and the traditions of the people who create it. The continental climate of this region of Spain provides abundant pastures upon which the two breeds of sheep feed. In fact, there are some 60,000 animals registered at the Regulating Council, a body that governs various aspects of cheese production, including, as the name implies, strict regulation of the cheese-making process which has been protected by the Denomination of Origin since 1993. The sheep produce a hefty volume of milk annually; over four million gallons are used exclusively for cheese (which is, if you can believe it, only about one-quarter of their total annual production), yielding over 330 tons of Zamorano cheese per year. Again, we can thank these two breeds of Spanish sheep for this delicacy, as it’s no small task to produce the amount of milk necessary to satisfy the world’s craving for this wonderful cheese. Once the milk is ready (free of colostrum that could adversely affect production), cheese processing can begin, and is carried out in compliance with the following steps, as mandated by the Regulating Council:

1. Curdling: caused by rennet (an enzyme-containing coagulant that produces the curd) at a temperature of 82 to 90°F. The curdling time is between 30 and 45 minutes.
2. Cutting and Heating: The resulting curd is cut several times and then stirred during a gentle warming-up process
3. Moulding and Pressing: Specific moulds give this cheese its characteristic cylindrical shape.
4. Salting: May be humid or dry, and at times both forms are used together.
5. Aging and Preservation/Curing: The minimum duration is no less than one hundred days, starting with the day of moulding. Some facilities still use the famed caves of the region that are distinctively cold and humid.

Despite the large amount of cheese produced per year, the meticulous attention paid to the processing stages and methods ensures consistent flavor and quality. But it wasn’t always produced in this highly regulated form. This cheese was originally made and developed by essentially nomadic families who would move from place to place throughout the Castillian countryside, taking their flocks of sheep with them to each new grazing land. Wherever they would settle for the time being, they would unpack their cheese-making utensils and spend months making their goods. When they would finally return to their home province of Zamora, they would sell their cheese in local markets but not before leaving some to ripen for extended periods of time in underground cellars or caves. These aged cheeses were later sold at a higher price and/or consumed by the families that produced them.

The season for producing their famed cheese was during the spring and summer months, during which they would make batch after batch that they would then sell or keep through the winter. In the later half of last century, they started settling and building small cheese factories which today are considered “artisan” cheese factories. They’re still worked by many of the same families who have made the cheese for centuries. They follow the same annual rhythm of producing and selling cheeses that their nomadic ancestors did, including curing these unique cheeses in the caves of the Zamoran province.

Tasting Notes

Le Chevrot: Young Le Chevrot has off-white, slightly wrinkled rind. When very young, the cheese has a gentle, aromatic, yeasty taste and a fine, moist texture. As it gets older, the interior softens and the flavor becomes nuttier and fuller-bodied. At its peak age (which is what The Gourmet Cheese of the Month Club brings to you this month), the cheese is denser and creamier, and there is a fruity tinge to the taste. Le Chevrot is especially well-suited as a snack to enjoy with bread and your favorite authentic French champagnes or white wines from the Loire Valley.
Comté Extra: All Comté is graded using a 20 point grading system. 15 points or higher denotes a labeling of "Comté Extra". We found it salty, mild, and lightly fruity with hazelnut and nutmeg flavors. This cheese works well in a fondue, as part of a cheese platter or in a hot, melted sandwich. It's also suitable for snacking or tossed as cubes in a salad. Thanks to its uniqueness, its cultural importance, and its economic contribution to the region, Comté cheese was one of the first cheeses to be awarded a label of origin guaranteeing its quality (AOC). As one of the premiere cheeses of France, we know you'll enjoy this exquisite taste of French living. Bon appétit!
Zamorano: A well-known and respected Spanish cheese, it is usually produced in the shape of drum. The cheese is very similar to Castelanno and Manchego in texture, but is less grainy. Its natural rind is covered in gray mold. The flavor offers a hint of burnt caramel and the buttery taste of sheep's milk, with some intense, piquant highlights. Zamorano is most frequently enjoyed as a table cheese.

Culture Corner
Cheese	Pronunciation	Recommended Wine/Beer
Le Chevrot	le shev-ROH	Robust reds such as Côtes de Nuit, Saint-Émilion, Côtes du Rhône, Chateauneuf du Pape or full-bodied, dry white wines like Chardonnay.
Comté	con-TAY	Dry full-bodied red wines such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Zamorano	zah-moh-RAH-noh	Rioja, aged Spanish sherry (especially Cream Sherry if you can find it!) or even Sangria.

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